227 News found

23/04/2024 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Bernd Zangerl's huge highball 29Dots in Valle dell'Orco, Italy British climber James Pearson has made the third ascent of Bernd Zangerl’s 8A+ highball boulder problem '29 Dots' in Val Noasca, Valle dell'Orco, Italy.

02/04/2024 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse Interview with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll after the first traverse of the four main peaks of the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia, Chile. The Belgian alpinist climbed Torre Sur, Torre Central, Torre Norte and La Peineta solo from 23 - 26 February 2024 and called the enchainment 'Travesía Doble M'.

29/03/2024 - Alpinism
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses Austrian alpinist Barbara Vigl reports about a repeat of the 'Gervasutti-Gagliardone' on the East Face of the Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif, carried out in July 2023 by Vigl with Anna Truntschnig and Anna Zechling. Apart from possibly being the first all-female ascent of this route, the repeat underscores the...

12/03/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl finds his Daily Dose of Luck on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, Austria Without a rope, alone, into the unknown. Martin Feistl reports about the solo first ascent of the mixed climb 'Daily Dose of Luck' (400m, WI 5, M4) established on 24 January 2024 on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, a small side valley of the Stubaital in Austria.

04/03/2024 - Climbing
Bronwyn Hodgins climbs her first 8c+, La Rubia at Villanueva Del Rosario On 28 February 2024 Bronwyn Hodgins of Canada climbed her first 8c+, 'La Rubia' at Villanueva Del Rosario in Spain

06/01/2024 - Interviews
Alex Megos interview after Siurana Sleeping Lion second ascent Interview with German climber Alexander Megos who on 4 January 2024 made the first repeat of Sleeping Lion at Siurana in Spain. Established by Chris Sharma in March 2023 and originally graded 9b+, Megos believes the route warrants 9b.

15/12/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson suggests E12 for his Bon Voyage at Annot in France After the first ascent in February 2023, British climber James Pearson has now proposed the grade E12 for Bon Voyage at Annot in France. Currently there is no other trad route of this grade. In this great introspective piece the 30-year-old British climber talks about the path that led him...

21/11/2023 - Alpinism
Salbit Trilogy speed record set by Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli Swiss alpinists Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli have climbed the Salbitschijen west, south and east ridge in an unprecedented record time of 5 hours and 53 minutes. The previous best known time was set in July 2023 in Dani Arnold who climbed the three ridges solo in 9 hours and...

25/10/2023 - Competitions
Piper Kelly, Samuel Watson, Jesse Grupper & Natalia Grossman qualify for Paris 2024 Olympic Games The Pan American Games 2023 concluded in Santiago, Chile, yesterday with Team USA making a clean sweep and winning all four slots for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. Piper Kelly and Samuel Watson qualified for Speed, Jesse Grupper & Natalia Grossman for the Boulder & Lead event.

23/10/2023 - Alpinism
Rottalhorn West Face first ascent by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel, Rolf Zurbrügg On 12/10/2023 Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel and Rolf Zurbrügg made the first ascent of the west face of Rottalhorn (3971m) in Switzerland's Bernese Alps via their 'Herbstwanderung'.

09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen Tower, while 'Super Thuraya' (6c, 500m) climbs the southwest pillar...

16/09/2023 - Competitions
Aleksandra Miroslaw, Bassa Mawem qualify for Speed Climbing at Paris 2024 Olympic Games Yesterday at the IFSC Speed European Qualifier in Rome, Italy, Aleksandra Miroslaw from Poland and Bassa Mawem from France secured Speed Climbing spots at the Olympic Games Paris 2024. In the qualifiers Miroslaw set a new world record by stopping the clock after 6.24 seconds.

29/06/2023 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold solos Switzerland's Salbit Trilogy in under 10 hours On 11 June 2023 Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold soloed the three ridges on the legendary Salbitschijen in 9 hours, 36 minutes and 55 seconds.

23/06/2023 - Climbing
Yeah Woman! Nina Caprez repeats Yeah Man (8b+, 300m) in Gastlosen, Switzerland On Sunday 18 June Swiss rock climber Nina Caprez has repeated Yeah Man (8b+, 300m) on Grand Pfad in the Gastlosen mountain range in Switzerland.

09/06/2023 - Climbing
Florian Riegler frees his Stile di vita at Nago, Italy The report by Florian Riegler from the South Tyrol, Italy, who at Nago close to Arco freed his multi-pitch sport climb Stile di vita (8c, 100m).

01/06/2023 - Alpinism
Salbitschijen Winter trilogy completed by Lukas Hinterberger, Michael Wohlleben From 15 to 16 February 2023 German alpinists Lukas Hinterberger and Michael Wohlleben completed what is likely to be the first winter ascent of the Salbitschijen trilogy, ie the famous Salbit West Ridge, South Ridge and East Ridge in Switzerland.
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