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Six Italians summit Nanga Parbat with Cesar Rosales from Peru
05/07/2022 - Alpinism
Six Italians summit Nanga Parbat with Cesar Rosales from Peru
Italian alpinists Roger Bovard, Marco Camandona, François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Jerome Perruquet and Pietro Picco all summited Nanga Parbat (8126m) yesterday without supplementary oxygen. Cesar Rosales from Peru reached the summit of the ninth highest mountain in the world with the Valle d'Aosta team.
Marmolada glacier collapse kills 11. 'Phase 2' now begins on the Queen of the Dolomites
03/07/2022 - Alpinism
Marmolada glacier collapse kills 11. 'Phase 2' now begins on the Queen of the Dolomites
A huge portion of the Marmolada glacier in the Italian Dolomites collapsed below Punta Rocca early on Sunday afternoon, killing 11 mountaineers.
- All 11 victims have been identified
- Phase Two now begins, marked by drone searches for the next 10 days and the collection of findings every 3...
Pou brothers climb new route on Cashan North Face in Peru
01/07/2022 - Alpinism
Pou brothers climb new route on Cashan North Face in Peru
Iker and Eneko Pou have made the first ascent of Bizirik on the North Face of Cashan (5716m) in the Cordillera Blanca range of the Peruvian Andes.
New climbs on Urus Oeste in Peruvian Andes by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
27/06/2022 - Alpinism
New climbs on Urus Oeste in Peruvian Andes by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Micher Quito have established two new routes in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru: Hanan pacha (90°/425m) on Urus Oeste and Emmoa (M6/75°/640m) on Urus Oeste III.
New Ranrapalca route in Peru by Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori, Giovanni Zaccaria
24/06/2022 - Alpinism
New Ranrapalca route in Peru by Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori, Giovanni Zaccaria
On 10/06/2022 on north face of Ranrapalca 6162m in Peru the Italian mountaineers Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori and Giovanni Zaccaria established a new mixed route alpine style. 'Mucha Banana', is 600m high with difficulties estimated at 80°, AI3+, M5.
Marc-Andrés Vision on Torre Egger in Patagonia
21/06/2022 - Alpinism
Marc-Andrés Vision on Torre Egger in Patagonia
The video by Brette Harrington documenting the first ascent of Marc-Andrés Vision, a climb on Torre Egger in Patagonia imagined by Marc-André Leclerc and completed in 2020 by Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton.
Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
20/06/2022 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Federica Mingolla reports about her Thursday 16 June ascent, belayed by Niccolò Bartoli, of Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (Dolomites), first ascended by Alexander Huber in 1999. Mingolla and Bartoli descended from where the route joins the classic Cassin due to poor conditions
Watch Georgian first ascents on Saraghrar and Languta-e-Barfi in Hindu Kush
19/06/2022 - Alpinism
Watch Georgian first ascents on Saraghrar and Languta-e-Barfi in Hindu Kush
The video of the Georgian expedition comprised of Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze who in 2021 completed the first ascent of the NW summit of Saraghrar and the third ascent of Languta-e-Barfi in the Rosh Gol valley in Pakistan.
Mark Thomas, Mike Turner are Thunderstruck on Kichatna Spire in Alaska
16/06/2022 - Alpinism
Mark Thomas, Mike Turner are Thunderstruck on Kichatna Spire in Alaska
British mountaineers Mark Thomas and Mike Turner have made the first ascent of Thunderstruck on the East Face of Kichatna Spire in Alaska. The stunning 1200m big wall was established after 12 days of hard and bold climbing.
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl
15/06/2022 - Alpinism
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl
Last summer Austrian climbers Benedikt Hiebl and Barbara Vigl made the first ascent of Erebor, an 11-pitch climb on the SE Face of Arnplattenspitze (2171m) in the Wetterstein massif. Vigl reports
Shaue Sar climbed in Karakorum by Philipp Brugger, Tomas Franchini, Lukas Waldner
13/06/2022 - Alpinism
Shaue Sar climbed in Karakorum by Philipp Brugger, Tomas Franchini, Lukas Waldner
Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini reports about the first ascent of the virgin Shaue Sar (6653m) in Karakorum, Pakistan, first ascended on 27/05/2022 with Philipp Brugger and Lukas Waldner. Franchini also soloed the unclimbed peaks Gypsy Sar (5810m) and Croz von Zartgurben (4650m).
Full Moon Fever on Mount Hunter in Alaska established by August Franzen, Clint Helander
08/06/2022 - Alpinism
Full Moon Fever on Mount Hunter in Alaska established by August Franzen, Clint Helander
From 13 to 16 May 2022 the Alaskan alpinists August Franzen and Clint Helander established 'Full Moon Fever' (AK 6, M7, A1, AI4), a huge new mixed climb up the West Buttress of Mount Hunter (4442m) in Alaska.
Torre Egger Traverse in Patagonia by Priti Wright, Jeff Wright
07/06/2022 - Alpinism
Torre Egger Traverse in Patagonia by Priti Wright, Jeff Wright
In January 2022 Priti and Jeff Wright traversed three of the four peaks in the Patagonian Cerro Torre range: Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron and Torre Egger, linking three different routes: Festerville, Spigolo dei Bimbi and Espejo del Viento. The video and Priti's smash and grab trip report, that follows their...
Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman
06/06/2022 - Alpinism
Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman
From 23 - 27 May 2022 David Allfrey, Whit Magro and Graham Zimmerman established a new alpine, big wall route on the Northwest Face of Kichatna Spire in the Alaska Range. They named the 950m climb 'The Pace of Comfort' and graded it VI 5.10, A3+, M6, 70° snow.
Marek Raganowicz completes 35-day big wall solo first ascent on Baffin Island’s Polar Sun Arm
01/06/2022 - Alpinism
Marek Raganowicz completes 35-day big wall solo first ascent on Baffin Island’s Polar Sun Arm
From 17 April to 21 May 2022 Polish mountaineer Marek Raganowicz climbed a new route solo on Polar Sun Arm, the huge buttress that guards Polar Sun Spire on Baffin Island in Canada. MikroKozmik Variations was climbed over 35 days past difficulties up to VII, A4+, M5 and, after...
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist
30/05/2022 - Alpinism
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist
Claude Gardien, historic editor-in-chief of the French magazine Vertical, remembers Simone Badier who passed away on 18 March 2022. Born in 1936 and as talented as she was discreet, she was one of the leading figures in women's climbing and mountaineering.

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