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Japan dominates Briançon Lead World Cup
22/07/2024 - Competitions
Japan dominates Briançon Lead World Cup
The fourth stage of the Lead World Cup 2024 was won by Mei Kotake and Zento Murashita of Japan, which claimed 4 of the 6 podiums.
South Ridge of Punta Vardaz (Mont Blanc massif) climbed by Simon Richardson, Michael Rinn
19/07/2024 - Alpinism
South Ridge of Punta Vardaz (Mont Blanc massif) climbed by Simon Richardson, Michael Rinn
Climbing on 18-19 June 2024, Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn established a new route along the South Ridge of Punta Vardaz in the Mont Blanc massif. Rinn reports.
Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/07/2024 - Alpinism
Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have made the first ascent of 'Puro Floro' on the SE Face of Nevado Copa (6190) in Peru.
Laura Pineau, from Freerider on El Capitan to Turkey Crack at Cadarese
15/07/2024 - Climbing
Laura Pineau, from Freerider on El Capitan to Turkey Crack at Cadarese
French climber Laura Pineau reports about some of her most recent ascents that include a free repeat of 'Freerider' on El Capitan in Yosemite and a fast repeat of 'Turkey Crack' at Cadarese in Italy.
Grimpeuses Paris - a way beyond good climbing meeting for women
12/07/2024 - Events
Grimpeuses Paris - a way beyond good climbing meeting for women
Pro climber Caroline Ciavaldini reports about the Grimpeuses climbing meeting for women that took place on the outskirts of Paris at the end of May.
David Göttler abandons ambitious Nanga Parbat attempt
11/07/2024 - Alpinism
David Göttler abandons ambitious Nanga Parbat attempt
David Göttler has abandoned his ambitious expedition on Nanga Parbat for this year, due to unfavourable conditions during his final summit attempt. The German alpinist had hoped to climb the Rupal Face alpine style, initially with Mike Arnold, then with Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein.
Embracing the Grim - a tribute to Line van Den Berg
09/07/2024 - Alpinism
Embracing the Grim - a tribute to Line van Den Berg
The short film 'Embracing the Grim' by Aleksandra Janiak featuring Fay Manners and Line van den Berg, the talented Dutch alpinist who perished in 2023
Janja Garnbret reigns supreme in Innsbruck, Amagasa Sohta wins Boulder, Jakob Schubert claims Lead
01/07/2024 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret reigns supreme in Innsbruck, Amagasa Sohta wins Boulder, Jakob Schubert claims Lead
The fourth IFSC World Cup stage of the season took place in Innsbruck, Austria last week. Boulder was won by Janja Garnbret and Amagasa Sohta, while Lead was won by Garnbret and Jakob Schubert.
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro Ferrari, Mario Conti, Pino Negri and Daniele Chiappa. Text by...
Budapest makes and breaks Paris 2024 Olympic dreams
28/06/2024 - Competitions
Budapest makes and breaks Paris 2024 Olympic dreams
Eddie Fowke reports about the second and final Olympic Qualifying Series that took place in Budapest, Hungary, from 20 to 23 June. Stakes were extremely high as after Shanghai this represented the last chance for 24 Combined Boulder & Lead climbers and 14 Speed athletes to qualify for the Paris...
Alex Rohr: progress is everything
26/06/2024 - Climbing
Alex Rohr: progress is everything
The documentary 'Project Breakthrough', created by John Thornton, tells the story of how the Swiss climber Alexander Rohr breaks the 9a barrier with three top-level challenges: the first pitch of 'Change' (9a+/b) at Flatanger in Norway, 'La Castagne' (9a+) and 'Eagle 4' (9b) at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France.
Christian Maurer & Peter von Känel: 30 4000ers in 10 days
25/06/2024 - Alpinism
Christian Maurer & Peter von Känel: 30 4000ers in 10 days
Swiss mountaineers Christian Maurer and Peter von Känel climbed 30 fourthousanders during the first 10 days of their XPeaks project to climb all 82 peaks over 4,000m in the Alps within 72 days.
24 Combined athletes qualify in Budapest for Paris 2024 Olympic Games
23/06/2024 - Competitions
24 Combined athletes qualify in Budapest for Paris 2024 Olympic Games
After both rounds of Olympic Qualifier Series, Shanghai and Budapest, the following 24 Combined Boulder & Lead climbers obtained a quota spot for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games today. Women: Brooke Raboutou, Miho Nonaka, Erin McNeice, Chaehyun Seo, Zhilu Luo, Ievgeniia Kazbekova, Mia Krampl, Lucia Dörffel, Zélia Avezou, Camilla Moroni,...
Olympic Qualifier Series Budapest: Combined Finals live
23/06/2024 - Competitions
Olympic Qualifier Series Budapest: Combined Finals live
Sunday 23 June 2024 the Olympic Qualifier Series concludes in Budapest, Hungary with Combined Boulder & Lead Finals. The competitions will be streamed live on the Olympic Channel.
14 Speed climbers qualified for Paris 2024 Olympic Games
22/06/2024 - Competitions
14 Speed climbers qualified for Paris 2024 Olympic Games
Budapest OQS has confirmed who will go to the Olympic Games this summer: Yafei Zhou, Aleksandra Kalucka, Rajiah Sallsabillah, Capucine Viglione, Manon Lebon, Leslie Adriana Romero Perez, Beatrice Colli and Wu Peng, Veddriq Leonardo, Amir Maimuratov, Zach Hammer, Reza Alipour Shenazandifard, Yaroslav Tkach, Shin Euncheo.
Filip Babicz frees Persefone Ext (D15) in Italy's Gran Borna cave
21/06/2024 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz frees Persefone Ext (D15) in Italy's Gran Borna cave
On 5 June 2024 the Italian-Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz made the first ascent of 'Persefone Extension', a new extreme drytooling climb in the Gran Borna cave at La Thuile in Italy. 54 meters long and graded D15, the route was established DTS style and is dedicated to his late friend...

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