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Video: Jakob Schubert DWS on Mallorca
20/07/2023 - Climbing
Video: Jakob Schubert DWS on Mallorca
Watch the first episode of Austrian climber Jakob Schubert deep water solo climbing on the island of Mallorca and making the first repeat of Chris Sharma's 'Alasha'. The crux consists of an 8A boulder problem 15 meters above the water.
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer climb virgin Yernamandu Kangri in Karakorum
19/07/2023 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer climb virgin Yernamandu Kangri in Karakorum
Experienced alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer have made the first ascent of Yernamandu Kangri, a 7180m peak in Pakistan's Karakorum. The pair climbed alpine style and needed three bivouacs.
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
14/07/2023 - Alpinism
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
Interview with Nadir Maguet who set a new ascent and descent record on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif on Monday 10 July 2023. The 29-year-old Italian athlete climbed the Normal Route from Planpincieux (Courmayeur - Val Ferret) to Pointe Walker (4,208m) in 2:17. After a short rest...
Stetind 'South West Face' first ascent in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Andreas Widlund
13/07/2023 - Alpinism
Stetind 'South West Face' first ascent in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Andreas Widlund
Joda Dolmans reports about the first ascent of 'South West Face' on Stetind in Norway with Andreas Widlund. The 790m climb was established in a 33-hour push, breaches difficulties up to N7/A0, and shares a short section of 'Guldfisken' in the middle of the face.
Big new climb on Spiz d'Agner (Dolomites) by Nicolò Geremia, Mirco Grasso
10/07/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Spiz d'Agner (Dolomites) by Nicolò Geremia, Mirco Grasso
At Punta Frassenè on Spiz d'Agner (Dolomites, Italy) Nicolò Geremia and Mirco Grasso have made the first ascent of Barbari nel TAO (IX+/X-, 500m). Both describe this multi-pitch as 'one of the most beautiful and fun routes' they know.
Paul Bonhomme starts Via Alpina 'Zero to Zero' run across the Alps in 28 days
08/07/2023 - Trail running
Paul Bonhomme starts Via Alpina 'Zero to Zero' run across the Alps in 28 days
French mountain guide Paul Bonhomme set off in the early hours of this morning from Muggia in Italy on his ambitious 'Zero to Zero' project to run across the Alps all the way to the Principality of Monaco following the Via Alpina trail in 28 days.
Sass di Stria black magic by Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka
05/07/2023 - Alpinism
Sass di Stria black magic by Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka
Czech mountaineer Michal Coubal reports about the first ascent of 'Magia nera', established on the SE Face of Sass de Stria (2477m) above Passo Valparola in the Dolomites with Martin Tučka.
Gran Sasso d'Italia, Via Ferrata Brizio changes name and becomes Ferrata dei Ginepri
04/07/2023 - Trekking
Gran Sasso d'Italia, Via Ferrata Brizio changes name and becomes Ferrata dei Ginepri
The Teramo section of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) has announced it has changed the name of Via Ferrata Brizio to Via Ferrata dei Ginepri. The decision derives from historical events linked to the application of the racial laws during Italy's fascist period.
Jana Švecová nails Nova, new 8B+ boulder problem in Czech Republic
30/06/2023 - Climbing
Jana Švecová nails Nova, new 8B+ boulder problem in Czech Republic
Jana Švecová from the Czech Republic has made the first ascent of Nova, an 8B+ boulder problem at Lidomorna at Moravsky Kras. This powerful line adds a different start to Adam Ondra's 8C+ Terranova and hails as one of the most difficult boulder problems established by a woman to date.
Dani Arnold solos Switzerland's Salbit Trilogy in under 10 hours
29/06/2023 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold solos Switzerland's Salbit Trilogy in under 10 hours
On 11 June 2023 Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold soloed the three ridges on the legendary Salbitschijen in 9 hours, 36 minutes and 55 seconds.
Yeah Woman! Nina Caprez repeats Yeah Man (8b+, 300m) in Gastlosen, Switzerland
23/06/2023 - Climbing
Yeah Woman! Nina Caprez repeats Yeah Man (8b+, 300m) in Gastlosen, Switzerland
On Sunday 18 June Swiss rock climber Nina Caprez has repeated Yeah Man (8b+, 300m) on Grand Pfad in the Gastlosen mountain range in Switzerland.
Cœur de Géant repeated on Dent du Géant by Mathis Garayt, Arthur Poindefert, Kilian Moni
22/06/2023 - Alpinism
Cœur de Géant repeated on Dent du Géant by Mathis Garayt, Arthur Poindefert, Kilian Moni
On 17/06/2023 the young French mountaineers Mathis Garayt (19), Arthur Poindefert (19), Kilian Moni (20) made the first repeat of Cœur de Géant on the NW Face of Dent du Géant in the Mont Blanc massif. The 580m mixed climb is graded 580m, ED, M6+/7, WI 4+, 5c (5.10a) and...
Superquartz, the tough new quartzite crag in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
21/06/2023 - Climbing
Superquartz, the tough new quartzite crag in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
After having successfully launched a crowdfunding appeal, Maurizio Oviglia has now completed bolting the new crag Superquartz at Gonnesa close to Cagliari in SW Sardinia, Italy. The bullet-proof outcrop features 26 sport climbs from 4c to 7b
Alaska Big Wall: possible new climb up Cemetery Spire (Kichatnas) by Silvia Loreggian, Stefano Ragazzo
19/06/2023 - Alpinism
Alaska Big Wall: possible new climb up Cemetery Spire (Kichatnas) by Silvia Loreggian, Stefano Ragazzo
Italian mountaineers Silvia Loreggian and Stefano Ragazzo have established what is likely to be a new climb on Cemetery Spire in the Cathedral Spires group of the Kichatna mountains in Alaska. Gold Rush (600m, 5.12a A1+) was climbed with one bivy from 4 to 6 June 2023.
Meru South. Simon Gietl interview after Goldfish first ascent with Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
15/06/2023 - Interviews
Meru South. Simon Gietl interview after Goldfish first ascent with Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
Interview with Simon Gietl after the first ascent of Goldfish on Meru South in India, carried out alpine style from 11 - 13 May 2023 with Mathieu Maynadier and Roger Schäli. Interview by Bulgarian journalist Tanya Ivanova.
IFSC approves 2024 process for reinstatement of Russian and Belarusian athletes as neutral athletes
13/06/2023 - Competitions
IFSC approves 2024 process for reinstatement of Russian and Belarusian athletes as neutral athletes
The Executive Board of the IFSC has approved to start a process for the reinstatement of Russian and Belarusian athletes as neutral athletes, starting from 2024. The suspension of the Climbing Federation of Russia and Belarus Alpine Federation remains in place.

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