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Yannick Flohé powers up Return of the Dreamtime, new 8C+ at Cresciano
02/02/2023 - Climbing
Yannick Flohé powers up Return of the Dreamtime, new 8C+ at Cresciano
At Cresciano in Switzerland 23-year-old German athlete Yannick Flohe has made the first ascent of the 8C+ boulder problem 'Return of the Dreamtime'.
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply being Jews, did not have their membership renewed. Today the...
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war
24/01/2023 - Alpinism
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war
35-year-old mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny died on 21 January close to the city of Soledar in Ukraine. After dedicating their lives to climbing and mountaineering, they perished while in battle. Zakolodny was a successful Himalayan mountaineer and had earned the prestigious Snow Leopard award.
Benjamin Védrines completes solo winter ski mountaineering traverse of Queyras mountains, France
Benjamin Védrines completes solo winter ski mountaineering traverse of Queyras mountains, France
12,330 meters of altitude gain and a 138 km integral traverse, over a period of two days, solo, across the Queyras mountains from Vars to Villard. This, in short, is the ski mountaineering traverse carried out by French mountaineer Benjamin Védrines at the start of the new year.
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler and their Dhaulagiri winter alpine style attempt
20/01/2023 - Interviews
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler and their Dhaulagiri winter alpine style attempt
Interview with the mountaineers Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler, currently attempting to climb Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in winter and in alpine style.
In Val Badia (Dolomites) Simon Gietl, Aaron Durogati, Davide Prandini establish Felsenkeller
18/01/2023 - Alpinism
In Val Badia (Dolomites) Simon Gietl, Aaron Durogati, Davide Prandini establish Felsenkeller
On Mt Somamunt in the tiny Antersasc valley above Longiarù / Campill in Val Badia (Dolomites) Simon Gietl, first with Aaron Durogati then with Davide Prandini, made the first ascent of the mixed climb Felsenkeller'.
Mari Salvesen frees Tazlov, 8b trad crack in Norway
17/01/2023 - Climbing
Mari Salvesen frees Tazlov, 8b trad crack in Norway
Watch the video of Mari Augusta Salvesen making the first ascent of the trad climb Tazlov, a long term project of hers in Norway now graded 8b.
Jonas Schild repeats Le Voyage at Annot in France
17/01/2023 - Climbing
Jonas Schild repeats Le Voyage at Annot in France
On 7 January 2023 Swiss climber Jonas Schild has repeated 'Le Voyage', the E10 at Annot first ascended by James Pearson in 2017 and reputed to be the most difficult trad climb France.
New route on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia by Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza, Sean Villanueva
16/01/2023 - Alpinism
New route on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia by Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza, Sean Villanueva
On 10/01/2023 Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza and Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completed the first ascent of '¿Qué mirás, bobo?' (7b, 500m) on the east face of Aguja Mermoz (2732m) in the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia. After a bivouac on the summit the trio descended to El Chalten the next...
Greg Boswell establishes hardest winter climb in Scotland at Lochnagar
14/01/2023 - Alpinism
Greg Boswell establishes hardest winter climb in Scotland at Lochnagar
On Thursday 12/01/2023 Greg Boswell made the first ascent of 'Bring da ruckus' at Lochnagar. Graded XII 13, this 2-pitch outing is one of the hardest mixed climbs in Scotland.
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
13/01/2023 - Interviews
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
The High Life: the story of Sarah Cartier at Refuge de la Charpoua (Mont Blanc massif)
13/01/2023 - Alpinism
The High Life: the story of Sarah Cartier at Refuge de la Charpoua (Mont Blanc massif)
The docufilm The High Life that tells the story of Sarah Cartier and her young family, the hut wardens of Refuge de la Charpoua below Les Drus and Aiguille Verte in the Mont Blanc massif.
Grit & Rock Expedition Award for female mountaineering, deadline 28 February 2023
09/01/2023 - Alpinism
Grit & Rock Expedition Award for female mountaineering, deadline 28 February 2023
The deadline for the 2023 First Ascent Expedition Award is 28 February 2023. Promoted by the UK-based charity GRIT&ROCK, the annual expedition grant pool of USD10,000 is aimed at supporting female advancement in mountaineering
Manaslu climbed in winter by Alex Txikon & team
06/01/2023 - Alpinism
Manaslu climbed in winter by Alex Txikon & team
Alex Txikon, with Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Gelu Sherpa, Maila Sherpa, Mantere Lama Sherpa, Gamje Babu Sherpa and Chepal Sherpa, summited Manaslu in winter and without supplementary oxygen. This is the first integral winter ascent of the 8th highest mountain in the world, i.e. during the astronomical winter.
New route on Cerro Arenales, Patagonia, climbed by Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner, Isidora Llarena
03/01/2023 - Alpinism
New route on Cerro Arenales, Patagonia, climbed by Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner, Isidora Llarena
From 29 October to 16 November 2022 Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner and Isidora Llarena established a new route on Cerro Arenales above the Northern Patagonian Icefield. In order to do so, the three women completed an 150km autonomous traverse through this remote region. Lehner provides the details.
Climbing community, be the voice of oppressed Iranian mountaineers!
23/12/2022 - Alpinism
Climbing community, be the voice of oppressed Iranian mountaineers!
An appeal has been launched in favour of five mountaineers from Iran, Dena Sheybani, Mohammed Khiveh, Eshragh Najafabadi, Amir Arslan Mahdavi and Hessam Mousavi, arrested recently during the country-wide protests sparked by the death in custody of Mahsa Amini in mid-September and reportedly in grave danger. By French journalist Claude...