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Stefano Carnati sets Guinness World Record
26/03/2015 - Climbing
Stefano Carnati sets Guinness World Record
Italian climber Stefano Carnati has set a new Guinness World Record by climbing a 15m roof, graded 7c, in just 62 seconds.
Ice Climbing World Cup 2015: Angelika Rainer and Heeyong Park win at Champagny
09/02/2015 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2015: Angelika Rainer and Heeyong Park win at Champagny
Korea’s Park HeeYong and Italy’s Angelika Rainer won the French leg of the Ice Climbing World Cup after finishing second in last week’s Ice Climbing World Championship at Rabenstein, in Val Passiria.
Piolets d'Or 2015: Chris Bonington to receive Lifetime Achievement Award
27/01/2015 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2015: Chris Bonington to receive Lifetime Achievement Award
From 9 - 12 April 2015 Courmayeur and Chamonix become the world’s mountaineering capital with the 23 edition of the Piolets d’Or, the most prestigious mountaineering award. Britain’s Sir Chris Bonington will receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière - the Lifetime Achievement Award.
Colin Haley and Marc-Andre Leclerc climb Travesia del Oso Buda in Patagonia
25/01/2015 - Alpinism
Colin Haley and Marc-Andre Leclerc climb Travesia del Oso Buda in Patagonia
From 18 - 21 January 2015 Colin Haley and Marc-André Leclerc climbed Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron and Cerro Standhardt, This new traverse from south to north has been called Travesia del Oso Buda, in memory of Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Chad Kellogg.
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson free climb the Dawn Wall on El Capitan
15/01/2015 - Climbing
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson free climb the Dawn Wall on El Capitan
On 14 January 2015, after 19 days on the wall and years of efforts, American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson completed the historic first free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA. Almost 1000m high and with two pitches graded 5.14d (9a), this is probably the hardest...
Tommy Caldwell climbs last crux pitch at half-height on Dawn Wall
07/01/2015 - Climbing
Tommy Caldwell climbs last crux pitch at half-height on Dawn Wall
Breaking news from Yosemite: America’s Tommy Caldwell has just managed to redpoint the final 5.14 pitch, half-way up Dawn Wall, El Capitan, USA.
Sas de Dlacia, the alpinists' village
23/12/2014 - Alpinism
Sas de Dlacia, the alpinists' village
Located in the heart of Alta Val Badia, Camping Sas de Dlacia is a starting point for countless visions of the Dolomites that include trekking, ski mountaineering, snowshoeing, alpinism and rock climbing.
San Liberale, the crag in Italy's Monte Grappa massif. By Marco Savio.
18/12/2014 - Climbing
San Liberale, the crag in Italy's Monte Grappa massif. By Marco Savio.
A short history about San Liberale and its Frankenjura-style climbing in Italy's Monte Grappa massif. By Marco Savio.
Generazioni a Confronto, new aid climb by Fantini and Pezzol on Sasso di Fontana Mora
24/11/2014 - Climbing
Generazioni a Confronto, new aid climb by Fantini and Pezzol on Sasso di Fontana Mora
Angelo Fantini and Diego Pezzoli have made the first ascent of the aid climb Generazioni a Confronto (IV, 5c, A1/A2), Sasso di Fontana Mora, N Italy.
Gabriele Moroni: from competitions to Goldrake, sport climbing in his DNA
20/11/2014 - Interviews
Gabriele Moroni: from competitions to Goldrake, sport climbing in his DNA
Interview with Italian climber Gabriele Moronim from his first competitions to when he won bronze in the 2004 European Bouldering Championship in 2004, via his bouldering and sport climbing which recently netted him the redpoint of Goldrake 9a+ at Cornalba, Italy.
Aquasolo: Mauro Calibani deep water solo at Finale. By Andrea Gallo
18/11/2014 - Climbing
Aquasolo: Mauro Calibani deep water solo at Finale. By Andrea Gallo
Andrea Gallo recounts, with words, photos and a video, Mauro Calibani's deep water solo ascent at Dancing Dalle (Finale Ligure) of "Di buono c’è che con l’innalzamento...". This is the first episode of Aspettando il Sole The Movie, a project by Gallo about the climbing history of Finale, Italy.
Val Chiavenna: climbing at Mezzera, Scilano and Caprone
10/11/2014 - Climbing
Val Chiavenna: climbing at Mezzera, Scilano and Caprone
The crags Mezzera, Scilano and Caprone in Val Chiavenna, Italy, introduced by Enrico Baistrocchi and Matteo Deghi, with the photos by Massimo Malpezzi. In memory of Davide Grassi.
Alba all' Elba, new bouldering discovered by Rock slave XP 2014
03/11/2014 - Climbing
Alba all' Elba, new bouldering discovered by Rock slave XP 2014
The report by Marzio Nardi of Rock slave XP 2014, Elba Discovery, the climbing trip aimed at discovering the bouldering potential on Italy's Isola d'Elba.
Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion? The conference at the Brixen IMS
17/10/2014 - Alpinism
Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion? The conference at the Brixen IMS
On Saturday 18 October 18 the International Mountain Summit at Brixen will hold the conference "Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion?" Organised by the Master in Mountain Medicine and its director Dr. Luigi Festi, this conference will attempt to provide a definition to doping in the mountains and set...
Lead World Cup 2014: Jakob Schubert and Mina Markovic win in South Korea
16/10/2014 - Competitions
Lead World Cup 2014: Jakob Schubert and Mina Markovic win in South Korea
The fifth stage of the Lead World Cup 2014 was won on 12 October at Mokpo in South Korea by Jakob Schubert from Austria and Mina Markovic from Slovenia. The stage of the Speed World Cup was won by Marcin Dzienski and Iuliia Kaplina.
Has exploratory alpinism failed?
10/10/2014 - Alpinism
Has exploratory alpinism failed?
Starting from a recent statement by Reinhold Messner, Manuel Lugli discusses the presumed end of “traditional” and exploratory alpinism.