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Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply being Jews, did not have their membership renewed. Today the...
Torres del Paine South African Route repeated team-free by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow
25/01/2023 - Alpinism
Torres del Paine South African Route repeated team-free by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow
The South African Route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine (Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile) was repeated team-free over a 10-day period in early January 2023 by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen and Tyler Karow. Christensen provides the details in this interview.
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war
24/01/2023 - Alpinism
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war
35-year-old mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny died on 21 January close to the city of Soledar in Ukraine. After dedicating their lives to climbing and mountaineering, they perished while in battle. Zakolodny was a successful Himalayan mountaineer and had earned the prestigious Snow Leopard award.
Ski Mountaineering World Cup: Axelle Gachet-Mollaret, Thibault Anselmet, Rémi Bonnet win in Andorra
23/01/2023 - Competitions
Ski Mountaineering World Cup: Axelle Gachet-Mollaret, Thibault Anselmet, Rémi Bonnet win in Andorra
The 2023 Ski Mountaineering World Cup took place in Andorra last weekend. The Individual race was won on Saturday by Axelle Gachet-Mollaret and Thibault Anselmet, while Gachet-Mollaret and Rémi Bonnet won the Vertical race on Sunday.
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler and their Dhaulagiri winter alpine style attempt
20/01/2023 - Interviews
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler and their Dhaulagiri winter alpine style attempt
Interview with the mountaineers Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler, currently attempting to climb Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in winter and in alpine style.
In Val Badia (Dolomites) Simon Gietl, Aaron Durogati, Davide Prandini establish Felsenkeller
18/01/2023 - Alpinism
In Val Badia (Dolomites) Simon Gietl, Aaron Durogati, Davide Prandini establish Felsenkeller
On Mt Somamunt in the tiny Antersasc valley above Longiarù / Campill in Val Badia (Dolomites) Simon Gietl, first with Aaron Durogati then with Davide Prandini, made the first ascent of the mixed climb Felsenkeller'.
Greg Boswell establishes hardest winter climb in Scotland at Lochnagar
14/01/2023 - Alpinism
Greg Boswell establishes hardest winter climb in Scotland at Lochnagar
On Thursday 12/01/2023 Greg Boswell made the first ascent of 'Bring da ruckus' at Lochnagar. Graded XII 13, this 2-pitch outing is one of the hardest mixed climbs in Scotland.
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
13/01/2023 - Interviews
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Vortex added to Cul Mor in Scotland by Greg Boswell & Guy Robertson
24/12/2022 - Alpinism
Vortex added to Cul Mor in Scotland by Greg Boswell & Guy Robertson
On 18/12/2022 Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson made the first ascent of Vortex X,10, a testing new winter climb on Cul Mor in NW Scotland
Climbing community, be the voice of oppressed Iranian mountaineers!
23/12/2022 - Alpinism
Climbing community, be the voice of oppressed Iranian mountaineers!
An appeal has been launched in favour of five mountaineers from Iran, Dena Sheybani, Mohammed Khiveh, Eshragh Najafabadi, Amir Arslan Mahdavi and Hessam Mousavi, arrested recently during the country-wide protests sparked by the death in custody of Mahsa Amini in mid-September and reportedly in grave danger. By French journalist Claude...
Simon Lorenzi repeats Alphane (9A) at Chironico, Switzerland
21/12/2022 - Climbing
Simon Lorenzi repeats Alphane (9A) at Chironico, Switzerland
25-year-old Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi has made the fourth ascent of Alphane, the 9A boulder problem at Chironico in Switzerland first ascended by Shawn Raboutou in April 2022 and repeated in October by Aidan Roberts and Will Bosi.
Behind The Scenes of Alex Honnold's 2011 Yosemite The Phoenix free solo
17/12/2022 - Climbing
Behind The Scenes of Alex Honnold's 2011 Yosemite The Phoenix free solo
In 2011 Alex Honnold completed a bold ropeless ascent of The Phoenix (5.13) in Yosemite. In this video Reel Rock filmmaker Peter Mortimer explains this free solo from his exclusive point of view.
New Tsaranoro multipitch in Madagascar by Thibau Grandjean, Jan Novak
16/12/2022 - Climbing
New Tsaranoro multipitch in Madagascar by Thibau Grandjean, Jan Novak
In July 2022 Jan Novak and Thibau Grandjean made the first ascent of Circoncision (150m, 7a+) a new 150m multipitch on Lemur Wall in the Tsaranoro mountains of Madagascar. Novak, usually behind the lens of his camera, reports.
Siara Fabbri sends New Base Line (8B+) at Magic Wood
14/12/2022 - Climbing
Siara Fabbri sends New Base Line (8B+) at Magic Wood
On 24/11/2022 at Magic Wood in Switzerland American climber Siara Fabbri repeated New Base Line, the classic 8B+ boulder problem established by Bernd Zangerl.
New mixed climb added to Sass Pordoi (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
13/12/2022 - Alpinism
New mixed climb added to Sass Pordoi (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
On 10/12/2022 the two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher made the first ascent of Avatar, a new mixed climb up the NW Face of Sasso Pordoi in the Dolomites.
Scottish winter climbing: Greg Boswell, Guy Robertson debut on Nihilist at Lochnagar
12/12/2022 - Alpinism
Scottish winter climbing: Greg Boswell, Guy Robertson debut on Nihilist at Lochnagar
Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson have made the first winter ascent of Nihilist IX 9 at Lochnagar in Scotland.

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