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Shaue Sar climbed in Karakorum by Philipp Brugger, Tomas Franchini, Lukas Waldner
13/06/2022 - Alpinism
Shaue Sar climbed in Karakorum by Philipp Brugger, Tomas Franchini, Lukas Waldner
Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini reports about the first ascent of the virgin Shaue Sar (6653m) in Karakorum, Pakistan, first ascended on 27/05/2022 with Philipp Brugger and Lukas Waldner. Franchini also soloed the unclimbed peaks Gypsy Sar (5810m) and Croz von Zartgurben (4650m).
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Oltreconfine, demanding multipitch on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia
03/06/2022 - Alpinism
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Oltreconfine, demanding multipitch on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia
Polish rock climber Aleksandra Taistra has made the first repeat of Oltreconfine on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia, established by Fabio Palma, Matteo Della Bordella and Domenico Soldarini in 2006 and 2007.
Marek Raganowicz completes 35-day big wall solo first ascent on Baffin Island’s Polar Sun Arm
01/06/2022 - Alpinism
Marek Raganowicz completes 35-day big wall solo first ascent on Baffin Island’s Polar Sun Arm
From 17 April to 21 May 2022 Polish mountaineer Marek Raganowicz climbed a new route solo on Polar Sun Arm, the huge buttress that guards Polar Sun Spire on Baffin Island in Canada. MikroKozmik Variations was climbed over 35 days past difficulties up to VII, A4+, M5 and, after...
Loïc Zehani frees Chikane 9b at Orgon in France
21/05/2022 - Climbing
Loïc Zehani frees Chikane 9b at Orgon in France
At Orgon in France Loïc Zehani has made the first ascent of Chikane, 30 intense moves now graded 9b. In December 2021 the 20-year-old established the hardest route at Buoux, Jusqu'au bout du mond 8c+/9a.
Climbing at risk at Paligremnos - Plakias on Crete, Greece
12/05/2022 - Climbing
Climbing at risk at Paligremnos - Plakias on Crete, Greece
An online petition has been launched to save Paligremnos - Plakias on the island of Crete in Greece.
Sustainable climbing. The guidebook to Tyrol, Austria by Lena Müller, Deniz Scheerer
06/05/2022 - Climbing
Sustainable climbing. The guidebook to Tyrol, Austria by Lena Müller, Deniz Scheerer
Lena Müller and Deniz Scheerer have produced a climbing guidebook to climate-friendly rock climbing in Tyrol, Austria. Entitled 'Klimafreundlich Klettern. Ein Guidebook zur Anreise mit Bus, Bahn und Rad für Tirol', the guidebook promotes sustainability through the use of bus, train and bicycle to reach 21 different crags and is...
Seb Bouin deciphers DNA, possible new 9c in Verdon Gorge, France
05/05/2022 - Climbing
Seb Bouin deciphers DNA, possible new 9c in Verdon Gorge, France
On Friday 29 April Sébastien Bouin made the first ascent of DNA in the Ramirole sector of the Verdon Gorge in France. The French climber has suggested the grade 9c, making it one of the most difficult sport climbs in the world.
Hansjörg Auer Fish route solo on Marmolada 15 years ago today
29/04/2022 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer Fish route solo on Marmolada 15 years ago today
15 years ago today Hansjörg Auer set a major milestone in mountaineering history with his daring free solo of the Via Through the Fish on the south face of the Marmolada in the Dolomites
Firewall on Feuerhorn finally repeated by Guido Unterwurzacher, Simon Berger
26/04/2022 - Alpinism
Firewall on Feuerhorn finally repeated by Guido Unterwurzacher, Simon Berger
On 09/09/2021 Guido Unterwurzacher and Simon Berger made the first repeat of 'Firewall', a 300m 8b multipitch on Feuerhorn to the right of the famous 'End of Silence', established in 2003 by Alexander and Thomas Huber.
Smooth Criminal uncovered in Floitental, Austria by Johannes Kehrer, Martin Sieberer
15/04/2022 - Alpinism
Smooth Criminal uncovered in Floitental, Austria by Johannes Kehrer, Martin Sieberer
Johannes Kehrer and Martin Sieberer have made the first ascent of Smooth Criminal (M9/WI7-/150m), a testing mixed climb established in the Floitental in Austria.
Franco Cookson magical on The Sandman at Nesscliffe
12/04/2022 - Climbing
Franco Cookson magical on The Sandman at Nesscliffe
At Nesscliffe, England, Franco Cookson has made the first ascent of The Sandman E10 7a. During the previous weeks the British rock climber has repeated The Meltdown 9a in the Dinorwig slate quarries at Llanberis in Wales, as well as repeating Hold Fast, Hold True E10 7a at Glen Nevis...
Excalibur, Stefano Ghisolfi's futuristic project at Arco, Italy
07/04/2022 - Climbing
Excalibur, Stefano Ghisolfi's futuristic project at Arco, Italy
Stefano Ghisolfi analyses the holds on Excalibur, the futuristic climb at Drena close to Arco, Italy.
Golgotha East Face climbed in Alaska's Revelation Mountains by Clint Helander, Andres Marin
05/04/2022 - Alpinism
Golgotha East Face climbed in Alaska's Revelation Mountains by Clint Helander, Andres Marin
From 23-25 March 2022 Clint Helander and Andres Marin completed the first ascent of 'The Shaft of the Abyss' (VI AI5R M5 90° Snow A0 ca. 4,000’), a huge new mixed climb up the east face of awe-inspiring Mt. Golgotha in the Revelation Mountains of Alaska.
Symon Welfringer at Annot repeats Le Voyage, France’s hardest trad climb
31/03/2022 - Climbing
Symon Welfringer at Annot repeats Le Voyage, France’s hardest trad climb
French climber Symon Welfringer has repeated Le Voyage at Annot. The hardest trad climb in France was first ascended by James Pearson in 2017.
Andrea Lanfri and his Everest objective
30/03/2022 - Interviews
Andrea Lanfri and his Everest objective
Interview with Andrea Lanfri, the Paralympic athlete and mountaineer from Lucca recently arrived in Nepal with mountain guide Luca Montanari to attempt to climb Everest
Watch Adam Ondra climbing 8b+ slab at Bus de La Stria, Arco, Italy
28/03/2022 - Climbing
Watch Adam Ondra climbing 8b+ slab at Bus de La Stria, Arco, Italy
The video of Adam Ondra freeing an old project, an 8b+ slab called Italo-Spagnola at Bus de La Stria at Arco, Italy.

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