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Multiple limb amputee Andrea Lanfri summits Aconcagua twice!
26/01/2023 - Alpinism
Multiple limb amputee Andrea Lanfri summits Aconcagua twice!
Precisely 8 years after contracting meningitis and meningococcal septicaemia, Italian mountaineer and multiple limb amputee Andrea Lanfri successfully made two ascents of Aconcagua, at 6961 meters the highest mountain in South America. This is Lanfri’s fourth Seven Summits peak, after Mont Blanc (2008), Everest (2022) and Kilimanjaro (2022).
Torres del Paine South African Route repeated team-free by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow
25/01/2023 - Alpinism
Torres del Paine South African Route repeated team-free by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow
The South African Route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine (Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile) was repeated team-free over a 10-day period in early January 2023 by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen and Tyler Karow. Christensen provides the details in this interview.
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war
24/01/2023 - Alpinism
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war
35-year-old mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny died on 21 January close to the city of Soledar in Ukraine. After dedicating their lives to climbing and mountaineering, they perished while in battle. Zakolodny was a successful Himalayan mountaineer and had earned the prestigious Snow Leopard award.
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler and their Dhaulagiri winter alpine style attempt
20/01/2023 - Interviews
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler and their Dhaulagiri winter alpine style attempt
Interview with the mountaineers Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler, currently attempting to climb Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in winter and in alpine style.
Northern Twilight added to Rånkeipen in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Juho Knuuttila
19/01/2023 - Alpinism
Northern Twilight added to Rånkeipen in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Juho Knuuttila
Just a few days after having established two committing mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen in Norway, on 16 January 2023 Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila teamed up with Joda Dolmans from Sweden to make the first ascent of 'Northern Twilight' (M7, WI6) on the same face. 22-year-old Dolmans...
In Val Badia (Dolomites) Simon Gietl, Aaron Durogati, Davide Prandini establish Felsenkeller
18/01/2023 - Alpinism
In Val Badia (Dolomites) Simon Gietl, Aaron Durogati, Davide Prandini establish Felsenkeller
On Mt Somamunt in the tiny Antersasc valley above Longiarù / Campill in Val Badia (Dolomites) Simon Gietl, first with Aaron Durogati then with Davide Prandini, made the first ascent of the mixed climb Felsenkeller'.
Greg Boswell establishes hardest winter climb in Scotland at Lochnagar
14/01/2023 - Alpinism
Greg Boswell establishes hardest winter climb in Scotland at Lochnagar
On Thursday 12/01/2023 Greg Boswell made the first ascent of 'Bring da ruckus' at Lochnagar. Graded XII 13, this 2-pitch outing is one of the hardest mixed climbs in Scotland.
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
13/01/2023 - Interviews
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
The High Life: the story of Sarah Cartier at Refuge de la Charpoua (Mont Blanc massif)
13/01/2023 - Alpinism
The High Life: the story of Sarah Cartier at Refuge de la Charpoua (Mont Blanc massif)
The docufilm The High Life that tells the story of Sarah Cartier and her young family, the hut wardens of Refuge de la Charpoua below Les Drus and Aiguille Verte in the Mont Blanc massif.
Juho Knuuttila adds new two committing mixed climbs to Rånkeipen in Norway, one rope-solo
11/01/2023 - Alpinism
Juho Knuuttila adds new two committing mixed climbs to Rånkeipen in Norway, one rope-solo
Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila (27) has added two new mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen close to Narvik in Norway. 'Arctic Circus' (M6, WI6) was first ascended with Alexander Nordvall (29), while 'Polar Vortex' (M6, WI6) was established rope-solo. Knuuttila provides the details.
Grit & Rock Expedition Award for female mountaineering, deadline 28 February 2023
09/01/2023 - Alpinism
Grit & Rock Expedition Award for female mountaineering, deadline 28 February 2023
The deadline for the 2023 First Ascent Expedition Award is 28 February 2023. Promoted by the UK-based charity GRIT&ROCK, the annual expedition grant pool of USD10,000 is aimed at supporting female advancement in mountaineering
Brette Harrington masters Mezzogiorno di Fuoco, demanding multipitch in Sardinia, Italy
04/01/2023 - Alpinism
Brette Harrington masters Mezzogiorno di Fuoco, demanding multipitch in Sardinia, Italy
Brette Harrington has made a rare free ascent of Mezzogiorno di Fuoco (8b max, 7c obligatory, expo, 270m) on Punta Giradili in Sardinia, Italy.
New route on Cerro Arenales, Patagonia, climbed by Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner, Isidora Llarena
03/01/2023 - Alpinism
New route on Cerro Arenales, Patagonia, climbed by Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner, Isidora Llarena
From 29 October to 16 November 2022 Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner and Isidora Llarena established a new route on Cerro Arenales above the Northern Patagonian Icefield. In order to do so, the three women completed an 150km autonomous traverse through this remote region. Lehner provides the details.
Watch Edu Marin making first repeat of WoGü in Rätikon, Switzerland
03/01/2023 - Climbing
Watch Edu Marin making first repeat of WoGü in Rätikon, Switzerland
The video of Spanish climber Edu Marin completing the first repeat of Wogü in the Rätikon massif, Switzerland, in 2016. The 250m 8c multipitch was established by Beat Kammerlander in 1998 and freed by Adam Ondra in 2008. 
Vortex added to Cul Mor in Scotland by Greg Boswell & Guy Robertson
24/12/2022 - Alpinism
Vortex added to Cul Mor in Scotland by Greg Boswell & Guy Robertson
On 18/12/2022 Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson made the first ascent of Vortex X,10, a testing new winter climb on Cul Mor in NW Scotland
Climbing community, be the voice of oppressed Iranian mountaineers!
23/12/2022 - Alpinism
Climbing community, be the voice of oppressed Iranian mountaineers!
An appeal has been launched in favour of five mountaineers from Iran, Dena Sheybani, Mohammed Khiveh, Eshragh Najafabadi, Amir Arslan Mahdavi and Hessam Mousavi, arrested recently during the country-wide protests sparked by the death in custody of Mahsa Amini in mid-September and reportedly in grave danger. By French journalist Claude...