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N as in… Nordland! Ski mountaineering in solitude around Narvik in Norway
N as in… Nordland! Ski mountaineering in solitude around Narvik in Norway
The report by mountain guide Giancarlo Maritano of a short ski touring trip in Norway, not to the more famous Lofoten Islands and the Tromsø area, but to the Nordland county. Based in Narvik, the group skied the peaks of Rivtind (1452m), Storfjellet (1633m), Nevertind (1420m) and Spanstinden (1457m), discovering...
Jorassique Pâques, big new French climb on the Grandes Jorasses
20/04/2026 - Alpinism
Jorassique Pâques, big new French climb on the Grandes Jorasses
From 3 to 6 April 2026, French alpinists Pierre Girot, Kilian Moni, Hugo Peruzzo and Arthur Poindefert established 'Jorassique Pâques' on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif. Graded ED+ M7 A3, the 1100-metre route climbs to Pointe Whymper on the north face. Poindefert reports.
Mutante mixed climb established on Petites Jorasses by Matteo Della Bordella, Mirco Grasso, Giacomo Mauri
23/03/2026 - Alpinism
Mutante mixed climb established on Petites Jorasses by Matteo Della Bordella, Mirco Grasso, Giacomo Mauri
On the south face of the Petites Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif, Matteo Della Bordella, Mirco Grasso and Giacomo Mauri opened the mixed climb 'Mutante' (M8, 6c, AI4+, 520m) on 19 and 20 March 2026
The route that doesn't exist on Cima Brenta by Silvestro and Tomas Franchini
26/02/2026 - Alpinism
The route that doesn't exist on Cima Brenta by Silvestro and Tomas Franchini
Silvestro Franchini recounts the first ascent of 'La via che non c'è' (M5/5+, 400m) on the northwest face of Cima Brenta in the Brenta Dolomites. Established with his brother Tomas Franchini on 02/06/2012, it is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful mixed climbs in the entire...
Out Of The Blue discovered on Cima Busazza (Presanella, Italy)
23/02/2026 - Alpinism
Out Of The Blue discovered on Cima Busazza (Presanella, Italy)
On 22/01/2026, on the north face of Cima Busazza in the Adamello – Presanella Group, Emanuele Andreozzi and Ruggero Samaden opened the mixed route 'Out Of The Blue'. Andreozzi reports.
'Ussha' mixed climb added to Pyramide du Tacul (Mont Blanc massif)
24/03/2025 - Alpinism
'Ussha' mixed climb added to Pyramide du Tacul (Mont Blanc massif)
On 18/03/2025 on Pyramide du Tacul in the Mont Blanc massif, the Italian mountain guides Niccolò Bruni and Giovanni Ravizza, together with aspiring mountain guide Michele Tixi, established the mixed climb 'Ussha' (ED M7+ 300m).
New mixed climb on Monte Vigna Vaga, Bergamo Alps, Italy
14/03/2025 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Monte Vigna Vaga, Bergamo Alps, Italy
On 2 March 2025 Valentino Cividini and Paolo Zenoni made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'La Rampa Vaga' (400m, D+/TD- (70-80°) on the north face ofVigna Vaga (2332m), Bergamo Alps, Italy.
Paul Bonhomme explores ‘De l’autre coté du ciel’ on Tête d’Eslucis in the Écrins
Paul Bonhomme explores ‘De l’autre coté du ciel’ on Tête d’Eslucis in the Écrins
On 16/01/2025 Paul Bonhomme made the first ski descent of ‘De l’autre coté du ciel’ down the North Face of Tête d’Eslucis (2764m) in the Écrins massif in France. The report by the French mountain guide.
Danny Menšík, Petr Vicha awaken the White Lynx on Rysy in Slovakia’s High Tatras
17/01/2025 - Alpinism
Danny Menšík, Petr Vicha awaken the White Lynx on Rysy in Slovakia’s High Tatras
Young alpinists Danny Mensik and Petr Vicha have made the first free ascent of 'Bílý Rys', White Lynx, a route established over a decade ago by Pavel Vrtík and Martina Kratochvílová on the NE Face of Rysy in the High Tatras, Slovakia. The 13-pitch, 450m mixed climb is graded M9....
Farewell to Gioachino Gobbi, grand Grivel president
20/11/2024 - Alpinism
Farewell to Gioachino Gobbi, grand Grivel president
Gioachino Gobbi, the Italian alpinist and great entrepreneur who in the 1980s relaunched the prestigious Grivel mountain equipment brand, has died aged 79.
Michelle Dvorak and Fay Manners rescued on Chaukhamba III
08/10/2024 - Alpinism
Michelle Dvorak and Fay Manners rescued on Chaukhamba III
On Sunday 6 October 2024 Michelle Dvorak from the USA and Fay Manners from Great Britain were rescued on Chaukhamba III in northern India. The pair were attempting a new route on the mountain's SE buttress.
Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/07/2024 - Alpinism
Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have made the first ascent of 'Puro Floro' on the SE Face of Nevado Copa (6190) in Peru.
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/06/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have completed the first ascent of 'Pisco Sour' on the SW Face of Nevado Pisco (5780m) in Peru. The 640m mixed route breaches difficulties up to 85°/M6 and was climbed in a 20-hour push on 12 June 2024.
Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours
24/04/2024 - Alpinism
Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours
In November 2023 mountain guides Genís Zapater Bargués and Alastair Mcdowell completed the Aoraki - Mt Cook Traverse in New Zealand in just over a day. Also referred to as the Grand Traverse and involving 55km, 4,500m+ elevation gain across rock, snow, and ice, this has been described as 'the...
Huge Langkofel Dolomites first ascent by Martin Feistl, Simon Gietl
27/02/2024 - Alpinism
Huge Langkofel Dolomites first ascent by Martin Feistl, Simon Gietl
On 2 and 3 February Martin Feistl and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of Aura (M6 AI5, 1200m) a new mixed climb on the northeast face of Langkofel / Sassolungo above Val Gardena in the Dolomites.
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
26/09/2023 - Alpinism
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
Marek Radovský reports about a climbing expedition with Ďuri Švingál to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru from 15/07/2023 to 15/08/2023. In the Taulliraju massif the Slovakian mountaineers managed to establish 'The Line under the sky' (6b M6+ 1100m) on a hitherto unclimbed mountain they have called Marva Peak (5141m).

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