1947 News found

On Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites) Angelo Contessi and Leo Gheza, together with Stefano Ragazzo, established Via Monologica route. Contessi reports.

On Torre Colfosco in Val Badia (Dolomites, Italy) Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of the new multi-pitch Back in Black.

At Punta Frassenè on Spiz d'Agner (Dolomites, Italy) Nicolò Geremia and Mirco Grasso have made the first ascent of Barbari nel TAO (IX+/X-, 500m). Both describe this multi-pitch as 'one of the most beautiful and fun routes' they know.

Czech mountaineer Michal Coubal reports about the first ascent of 'Magia nera', established on the SE Face of Sass de Stria (2477m) above Passo Valparola in the Dolomites with Martin Tučka.

After having successfully launched a crowdfunding appeal, Maurizio Oviglia has now completed bolting the new crag Superquartz at Gonnesa close to Cagliari in SW Sardinia, Italy. The bullet-proof outcrop features 26 sport climbs from 4c to 7b

Italian mountaineers Silvia Loreggian and Stefano Ragazzo have established what is likely to be a new climb on Cemetery Spire in the Cathedral Spires group of the Kichatna mountains in Alaska. Gold Rush (600m, 5.12a A1+) was climbed with one bivy from 4 to 6 June 2023.

Interview with Simon Gietl after the first ascent of Goldfish on Meru South in India, carried out alpine style from 11 - 13 May 2023 with Mathieu Maynadier and Roger Schäli. Interview by Bulgarian journalist Tanya Ivanova.

Watch Marcello Bombardi making the first ascent of El puma (9a) at Chesod in Valle d’Aosta, Italy

On Punta Argennas in Sardinia Mathias Mandi and Klaas Willems have made the first ascent of I Ribelli Della Montagna 7c (7a+ obligatory).

In March 2023 at Meteora in Greece the Italians Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established the multi-pitch climb Pythagoras (150m, 7a max, 6c obligatory) on the Sourloti Tower. Oviglia reports.

Italian climber Federica Mingolla has repeated Hotel Supramonte, the famous multi-pitch climb in the Gola di Gorropu gorge in Sardinia, established ground-up between 1998 and 1999 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani.

This spring La Severina, the spectacular crag in Cilento in Campania, Italy, was developed further and currently features 30 pitches ranging from 6b to 8b+. Rolando Larcher provides the info, while a video by Sergio Morra introduces this 'overhanging forest of stalactites' located between San Severino di Centola and the...

Cédric Lachat has made the first ascent of Fantasia in the Vercors, France. The 38-year-old climber has suggested 9b, making it the first of this grade for the Swissman.

On 20 April 2023 Polish climber Aleksandra Taistra repeated Genius (8b, 300m) on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia, Italy. Established in 2010 by Fabio Palma, Domenico Soldarini and Matteo della Bordella, the line had previously been ascended completely only once before, by Pietro dal Prà in 2012.

On 4 May 2023 in Valle dell'Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla and Matteo Sella made the first free ascent of 'E ti vengo a cercare'. In 1980 Ugo Manera and Isidoro Meneghin established all but the last pitch and the route lay remained unfinished until now.

The report by Michele Caminati who has made the first ascent of Toewalker on the porphyry crags at Bozen in the South Tyrol, Italy. The single-pitch trad climb is graded E7 6c.