1349 News found

In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply being Jews, did not have their membership renewed. Today the...

The South African Route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine (Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile) was repeated team-free over a 10-day period in early January 2023 by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen and Tyler Karow. Christensen provides the details in this interview.

35-year-old mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny died on 21 January close to the city of Soledar in Ukraine. After dedicating their lives to climbing and mountaineering, they perished while in battle. Zakolodny was a successful Himalayan mountaineer and had earned the prestigious Snow Leopard award.

At Siurana in Spain Pietro Vidi has reepated Last Night (9a), while at Margalef the 20-year-old Italian repeated Bumbayé (8c+).

At Saint Léger du Ventoux in France Austrian climber Eva Hammelmüller has repeated 'La ligne claire' (8c+).

Alex Txikon, with Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Gelu Sherpa, Maila Sherpa, Mantere Lama Sherpa, Gamje Babu Sherpa and Chepal Sherpa, summited Manaslu in winter and without supplementary oxygen. This is the first integral winter ascent of the 8th highest mountain in the world, i.e. during the astronomical winter.

Brette Harrington has made a rare free ascent of Mezzogiorno di Fuoco (8b max, 7c obligatory, expo, 270m) on Punta Giradili in Sardinia, Italy.

From 29 October to 16 November 2022 Rebeca Cáceres, Nadine Lehner and Isidora Llarena established a new route on Cerro Arenales above the Northern Patagonian Icefield. In order to do so, the three women completed an 150km autonomous traverse through this remote region. Lehner provides the details.

On 21/12/2022 Giovanni Placci made the third ascent of Bombardino ay Bus de La Stria close to Arco, Italy, following in the footsteps of Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi.

On 18/12/2022 Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson made the first ascent of Vortex X,10, a testing new winter climb on Cul Mor in NW Scotland

25-year-old Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi has made the fourth ascent of Alphane, the 9A boulder problem at Chironico in Switzerland first ascended by Shawn Raboutou in April 2022 and repeated in October by Aidan Roberts and Will Bosi.

German climber Moritz Welt has made the first ascent of a former Markus Bock project at Schiefer Tod in the Frankenjura, calling it Lazarus and grading it 9a+.

At Kochel am See in Germany Martina Demmel has repeated Heim nach Afrika (9a) and Chaos in Palumbia (8c+) at Atlantiswand.

In July 2022 Jan Novak and Thibau Grandjean made the first ascent of Circoncision (150m, 7a+) a new 150m multipitch on Lemur Wall in the Tsaranoro mountains of Madagascar. Novak, usually behind the lens of his camera, reports.

On 24/11/2022 at Magic Wood in Switzerland American climber Siara Fabbri repeated New Base Line, the classic 8B+ boulder problem established by Bernd Zangerl.

On 10/12/2022 the two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher made the first ascent of Avatar, a new mixed climb up the NW Face of Sasso Pordoi in the Dolomites.