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Mezzalama Trophy 2023 / Italians dominate most technical race course ever
26/04/2023 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy 2023 / Italians dominate most technical race course ever
Mission complete on Monte Rosa: the Italian military corp Alpini won the XXIII edition of the Mezzalama Trophy. Matteo Eydallin, Robert Antonioli and Davide Magnini dominated the men's event, while Giulia Murada, Giulia Compagnoni and Alba De Silvestro clinched a historic gold medal in the women's competition. Eydallin and Nicolini...
Big new route on Mount Dickey in Alaska by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
11/04/2023 - Alpinism
Big new route on Mount Dickey in Alaska by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
Over a three day period Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau established a new mixed climb up the East Face of Mount Dickey in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska, 'Aim for the bushes' (AI6M6X 5250).
Chris Sharma frees his Sleeping Lion (9b+) at Siurana in Spain
30/03/2023 - Climbing
Chris Sharma frees his Sleeping Lion (9b+) at Siurana in Spain
On 28 March 2023 Chris Sharma completed the first ascent of Sleeping Lion at Siurana in Spain. Graded 9b+, this is the 41-year-old's most difficult first ascent to date and one of the hardest sport climbs in the world.
Fay Manners, Freja Shannon discover 'How not to' on Senja in Norway
30/03/2023 - Alpinism
Fay Manners, Freja Shannon discover 'How not to' on Senja in Norway
Alpinists Fay Manners and Freja Shannon have made the first ascent of 'How not to' (M5, 250m) on the north face of Grytetippen on the island of Senja in Norway.
Will Bosi attempts Burden of Dreams and streams progress live on Instagram
16/03/2023 - Climbing
Will Bosi attempts Burden of Dreams and streams progress live on Instagram
Will Bosi is currently in Finland attempting Burden of Dreams (9A), the hardest boulder problem in the world established by Nalle Hukkataival in 2016. The Scottish climber is streaming his progress live on Instagram.
Mount Niflheim SW Couloir in Canada skied by Christina Lustenberger, Andrew McNab
Mount Niflheim SW Couloir in Canada skied by Christina Lustenberger, Andrew McNab
On 8 March 2023 Christina Lusti Lustenberger and Andrew McNab made what is likely to be the first ski descent of the striking SW Couloir of Mount Niflheim in British Colombia, Canada.
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
08/03/2023 - Alpinism
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
Marcin Tomaszewski reports about the first ascent of FRAM, a technical 700m climb on Oqatssut Wall on the West coast of Greenland established from 10 - 24 February 2023 with Paweł Hałdaś. This is the first route on the mountain and the first big wall climbed in Greenland in winter.
Keita Kurakami uncovers his Discovery at Yakushima in Japan
01/03/2023 - Climbing
Keita Kurakami uncovers his Discovery at Yakushima in Japan
Japanese rock climber Keita Kurakami provides thoughtful insight into the mentality behind his first ascent of the boulder problem 'Discovery' on the island of Yakushima, Japan.
Florian Wientjes sends his first 8C+, Off the wagon low in Val Bavona
22/02/2023 - Climbing
Florian Wientjes sends his first 8C+, Off the wagon low in Val Bavona
Last Saturday German climber Florian Wientjes sent his first 8C+ boulder problem, Off the wagon low in Val Bavona, Switzerland.
Simon Gietl completes first winter solo traverse of Geislerspitzen in Dolomites
18/02/2023 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl completes first winter solo traverse of Geislerspitzen in Dolomites
South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl has made the first winter solo traverse of the Geislerspitzen - Odles (Villnöß - Funes) in the Dolomites.
New mixed climb on Aiguille Noire du Peuterey by François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli
17/02/2023 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Aiguille Noire du Peuterey by François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Stefano Stradelli
From the 12th to 13th of February 2023, Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre and Stefano Stradelli established Couloir Isaïe, a new mixed climb on Punta Brendel on the west face of the Aiguille Noire du Peuterey (3,773 m) in the Mont Blanc massif.
Extremely Leonidio & Incredibly Close
16/02/2023 - Climbing
Extremely Leonidio & Incredibly Close
Climbing destinations and travel: notes from Leonidio in the Peloponnese, without a shadow of doubt one of the best rock climbing areas in Greece. By Nicoletta Costi and Nicola Noè.
Reel Rock 17
03/02/2023 - Climbing
Reel Rock 17
Reel Rock 17 will begin its global tour as of March 2023. The new season features Seb Bouin attempting to free DNA in the Verdon Gorge, Andrew Bisharat and Palestinian climbers in the strife-torn hills of Palestine, and Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher tackling Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower in...
Yannick Flohé powers up Return of the Dreamtime, new 8C+ at Cresciano
02/02/2023 - Climbing
Yannick Flohé powers up Return of the Dreamtime, new 8C+ at Cresciano
At Cresciano in Switzerland 23-year-old German athlete Yannick Flohe has made the first ascent of the 8C+ boulder problem 'Return of the Dreamtime'.
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply being Jews, did not have their membership renewed. Today the...
Torres del Paine South African Route repeated team-free by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow
25/01/2023 - Alpinism
Torres del Paine South African Route repeated team-free by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow
The South African Route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine (Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile) was repeated team-free over a 10-day period in early January 2023 by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen and Tyler Karow. Christensen provides the details in this interview.

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