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Siula Grande East Face climbed by Bru Busom and Marc Toralles
25/07/2022 - Alpinism
Siula Grande East Face climbed by Bru Busom and Marc Toralles
Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles have made the first ascent of the East Face of Siula Grande in Peru, climbing the inhospitable face in a single push from 11 - 16 July via their Ànima de corall. Toralles has described the line as 'the hardest route we have...
Broad Peak summit for Marco Camandona and Pietro Picco
20/07/2022 - Alpinism
Broad Peak summit for Marco Camandona and Pietro Picco
On Tuesday 19 July 2022 Italian mountaineers Pietro Picco and Marco Camandona reached the summit of Broad Peak (8047m) without supplementary oxygen. This is Camandona's twelfth eightthousander without O2.
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
19/07/2022 - Alpinism
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
Catalan alpinists Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve have explored new terrain on the on Lofoten Islands in Norway, adding the variation Rett Opp to the South Face of Helvetestinden, and making what is likely to be the first ascent of the North Face of Brasrastindan via their Nordside. Cucurell reports.
One Push added to Pumahuacanca in Peru by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
13/07/2022 - Alpinism
One Push added to Pumahuacanca in Peru by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
Basque mountaineers Eneko and Iker Pou, together with Peruvian mountaineer  Micher Quito, have made the first ascent of One Push on the SW Face of Pumahuacanca in Peru, describing the 1000m line as 'brutal' and 'the hardest high mountain route of our career.'
Pumari Chhish East first ascent in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan
08/07/2022 - Alpinism
Pumari Chhish East first ascent in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan
Climbing alpine style from 25 - 29 June 2022 French alpinists Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan completed the first ascent of Pumari Chhish East (6850m) in Pakistan. 'The Crystal Ship' (M7, 6b, A2, 1600m) takes a technical, direct route up the mountain’s south face. Sullivan reports.
Stairway to Heaven in Val Baione (Valle Camonica), Italy
07/07/2022 - Alpinism
Stairway to Heaven in Val Baione (Valle Camonica), Italy
On Cima Bacchetta, at the foot of Italy’s Mount Concarena (Val Baione - Valle Camonica) Leonardo Gheza and Angelo Contessi have made the first ascent of Stairway to heaven. The new route is dedicated to Luca Ducoli.
Six Italians summit Nanga Parbat with Cesar Rosales from Peru
05/07/2022 - Alpinism
Six Italians summit Nanga Parbat with Cesar Rosales from Peru
Italian alpinists Roger Bovard, Marco Camandona, François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, Jerome Perruquet and Pietro Picco all summited Nanga Parbat (8126m) yesterday without supplementary oxygen. Cesar Rosales from Peru reached the summit of the ninth highest mountain in the world with the Valle d'Aosta team.
Pou brothers climb new route on Cashan North Face in Peru
01/07/2022 - Alpinism
Pou brothers climb new route on Cashan North Face in Peru
Iker and Eneko Pou have made the first ascent of Bizirik on the North Face of Cashan (5716m) in the Cordillera Blanca range of the Peruvian Andes.
Nanga Parbat Aosta Valley Express variation climbed by François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco
27/06/2022 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat Aosta Valley Express variation climbed by François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco
On the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Pietro Picco have added a difficult new variation start to the Kinshofer route. Called Valle d'Aosta Express, the 1400m addition breaches difficulties up to AI 90° M6 85°, and was climbed on 26 June.
New climbs on Urus Oeste in Peruvian Andes by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
27/06/2022 - Alpinism
New climbs on Urus Oeste in Peruvian Andes by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Micher Quito have established two new routes in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru: Hanan pacha (90°/425m) on Urus Oeste and Emmoa (M6/75°/640m) on Urus Oeste III.
New Ranrapalca route in Peru by Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori, Giovanni Zaccaria
24/06/2022 - Alpinism
New Ranrapalca route in Peru by Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori, Giovanni Zaccaria
On 10/06/2022 on north face of Ranrapalca 6162m in Peru the Italian mountaineers Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori and Giovanni Zaccaria established a new mixed route alpine style. 'Mucha Banana', is 600m high with difficulties estimated at 80°, AI3+, M5.
Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
20/06/2022 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Federica Mingolla reports about her Thursday 16 June ascent, belayed by Niccolò Bartoli, of Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (Dolomites), first ascended by Alexander Huber in 1999. Mingolla and Bartoli descended from where the route joins the classic Cassin due to poor conditions
Nepal considering Everest Base Camp move due to global warming
18/06/2022 - Environment
Nepal considering Everest base Camp move due to global warming
The BBC reports that the government of Nepal is considering plans to move Everest base Camp off the retreating Khumbu glacier due to global warming
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl
15/06/2022 - Alpinism
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl
Last summer Austrian climbers Benedikt Hiebl and Barbara Vigl made the first ascent of Erebor, an 11-pitch climb on the SE Face of Arnplattenspitze (2171m) in the Wetterstein massif. Vigl reports
Shaue Sar climbed in Karakorum by Philipp Brugger, Tomas Franchini, Lukas Waldner
13/06/2022 - Alpinism
Shaue Sar climbed in Karakorum by Philipp Brugger, Tomas Franchini, Lukas Waldner
Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini reports about the first ascent of the virgin Shaue Sar (6653m) in Karakorum, Pakistan, first ascended on 27/05/2022 with Philipp Brugger and Lukas Waldner. Franchini also soloed the unclimbed peaks Gypsy Sar (5810m) and Croz von Zartgurben (4650m).
Full Moon Fever on Mount Hunter in Alaska established by August Franzen, Clint Helander
08/06/2022 - Alpinism
Full Moon Fever on Mount Hunter in Alaska established by August Franzen, Clint Helander
From 13 to 16 May 2022 the Alaskan alpinists August Franzen and Clint Helander established 'Full Moon Fever' (AK 6, M7, A1, AI4), a huge new mixed climb up the West Buttress of Mount Hunter (4442m) in Alaska.

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