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Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co
09/11/2022 - Interviews
Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co
Interview with Sebastian Pelletti after the first ascent of three new big routes in the Vampire Peaks area of Northwest Territories/Yukon in Canada, established with Michael Pedreros, Hernan Rodriguez Salas and the photographer Pato Diaz: 'Viaje Boreal' on Mount Dracula, 'Flow Latino' on Mount Dracula and 'Natural Mystic' on Dawn...
Camilla Moroni sends Heritage, 8B boulder problem in Val Bavona
08/11/2022 - Climbing
Camilla Moroni sends Heritage, 8B boulder problem in Val Bavona
In Switzerland Camilla Moroni has sent four 8A+ boulder problems, 'Delusion of Grandeur' and 'Second life' at Chironico, and 'Primitivo stand' and 'King of Sonlerto' in Val Bavona. The 21-year-old Italian climber has also sent her hardest problem to date, the 8B 'Heritage' in Val Bavona.
Will Bosi repeats Alphane, Shawn Raboutou’s Chironico testpiece
02/11/2022 - Climbing
Will Bosi repeats Alphane, Shawn Raboutou’s Chironico testpiece
On Monday 31 October 2022 William Bosi from Scotland made the third ascent of Alphane at Chironico in Canton Ticino, Switzerland. Established by Shawn Raboutou in April 2022, it was repeated by Aidan Roberts about a fortnight ago.
New Big Wall climbs on NW coast of Greenland
28/10/2022 - Alpinism
New Big Wall climbs on NW coast of Greenland
Over a period of 65 days Jacob Cook, Bronwyn Hodgins, Jaron Pham, Zack Goldberg-Poch, Angela Vanwiemeersch and Kelsey Watts explored the NW coast of Greenland where they established and repeated a series of new big wall climbs. Highlights of their by-fair-means expedition included the first ascent of Sea Barge Circus...
Aidan Roberts repeats Alphane at Chironico in Switzerland
25/10/2022 - Climbing
Aidan Roberts repeats Alphane at Chironico in Switzerland
24-year-old British rock climber Aidan Roberts has made the first repeat of Alphane, the boulder problem at Chironico in Switzerland first ascended by Shawn Raboutou in April 2022 and graded 9A by the American.
Alex Megos completes The Full Journey (9b) at Margalef
11/10/2022 - Climbing
Alex Megos completes The Full Journey (9b) at Margalef
On 9 October 2022 German climber Alexander Megos made the first ascent of Full Journey (9b) at Margalef in Spain.
We are Mahsa Amini! Interview with Iranian climber Nasim Eshqi
10/10/2022 - Interviews
We are Mahsa Amini! Interview with Iranian climber Nasim Eshqi
On September 16, 2022, Mahsa Amini, a 22-year-old Iranian woman, died after being arrested by the morality police in Tehran. Since then, outrageously brave, predominantly young women across the country have been protesting for human rights, equality and against the oppression of a totalitarian regime. German journalist Tom Dauer...
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022
07/10/2022 - Alpinism
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022
Slovenian alpinist Silvo Karo is to receive the 14th Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated from 17 to 20 November at Briançon in France. In the past the prestigious mountaineering prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot,...
Claudia Ghisolfi climbs TCT 9a at Gravere in Italy
24/09/2022 - Climbing
Claudia Ghisolfi climbs TCT 9a at Gravere in Italy
On Wednesday 21 September 2022 at Gravere in Val di Susa, Italy, Claudia Ghisolfi redpointed her first 9a, TCT. After Laura Rogora she is now only the second Italian woman to send 9a.
Mountain Warriors added to Alam Kooh in Iran by Nasim Eshqi, Sina Heidari
16/09/2022 - Alpinism
Mountain Warriors added to Alam Kooh in Iran by Nasim Eshqi, Sina Heidari
Alpinists Nasim Eshqi and Sina Heidari have made the first ascent of Mountain Warriors on the hitherto unclimbed Sun Tower on Alam Kooh (Mount Alam-kuh), at 4850m the second highest mountain in Iran.
Anna Taylor completes all 100 Mountain Rock climbs in UK
15/09/2022 - Climbing
Anna Taylor completes all 100 Mountain Rock climbs in UK
British rock climber Anna Taylor has completed all 100 climbs listed in the UK reference guidebook Mountain Rock. The 24-year-old spent 53 days climbing the routes and, notably, linking them by human power, ie cycling, running, hiking.
Martina Demmel back on track with Deltaplane man direct 8c+ at Entraygues
09/09/2022 - Climbing
Martina Demmel back on track with Deltaplane man direct 8c+ at Entraygues
This summer Martina Demmel from Germany repeated Deltaplane man direct 8c+ at Entraygues in France.
Halli Galli and La perla nera climbed in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Florian Harasser
08/09/2022 - Alpinism
Halli Galli and La perla nera climbed in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Florian Harasser
Florian Harasser reports about the first ascent, carried out with Simon Gietl, of two new multipitch climbs in Val Badia / Gadertal in the Dolomites: 'Halli Galli' on Crep de Boè and 'La perla nera' on Torre Colfosco.
Alexander Huber frees Ramayana on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
06/09/2022 - Climbing
Alexander Huber frees Ramayana on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
On the 18th of July German climber Alexander Huber made the first free ascent of Ramayana, a 6-pitch 8b+ on Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria.
New rockfall on Cosmiques Arête in Mont Blanc massif
01/09/2022 - Alpinism
New rockfall on Cosmiques Arête in Mont Blanc massif
Major rockfall took place on famous Arête des Cosmiques in the Mont Blanc massif on Monday 29 August 2022. This follows the landslide the swept away the Fourche bivouac on Friday 26 August.
New Italian climb on Uli Biaho Spire climb in Trango group, Pakistan
01/08/2022 - Alpinism
New Italian climb on Uli Biaho Spire climb in Trango group, Pakistan
On Uli Biaho Spire (5620m) in the Trango Towers region of Pakistan’s Karakorum the Italian alpinists Alessandro Baù, Leonardo Gheza and Francesco Ratti have established Refrigerator Off-Width. The 510m new route up the mountain’s East Face was climbed alpine style and is graded 7a, A2, M5.

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