1363 News found

30 years ago today German climbing legend Wolfgang Güllich died in a car crash aged just 31. He established the world’s first 8b, the world’s first 8b+, the world’s first 8c and, with Action Directe in Frankenjura, the world’s first 9a. A truly visionary figure, his influence extends well beyond...

In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik Slesova, also referred to as Peak 3850m.

From 20 to 24 July 2022 Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Marco Majori established Valore Alpino, a new route on Siula Grande (6344m) in Peru.

Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts have established a new route on Nevado Jirishanca (6094m) in Peru. The complex line is called Reino Hongo and graded 5.8/90°/M7.

Both Anna Hazlett and Tom Randall have repeated The Quarryman, the Johnny Dawes classic located in the Dinorwig slate quarries above Llanberis in North Wales.

Vinicio Stefanello leaves planetmountain.com. The site, which for 22 years has been a reference point for all those who love the mountains, mountaineering and climbing, continues under the leadership of Nicholas Hobley.

Elite Italian High Mountain Military Corps alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, Alessandro Zeni, Marco Majori, Filip Babicz and Stefano Cordaro have set off on an expedition to Peru where they will attempt a new route up the east face of Siula Grande.

Federica Mingolla reports about her Thursday 16 June ascent, belayed by Niccolò Bartoli, of Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (Dolomites), first ascended by Alexander Huber in 1999. Mingolla and Bartoli descended from where the route joins the classic Cassin due to poor conditions

Last summer Austrian climbers Benedikt Hiebl and Barbara Vigl made the first ascent of Erebor, an 11-pitch climb on the SE Face of Arnplattenspitze (2171m) in the Wetterstein massif. Vigl reports

Kim Ladiges and Matthew Scholes from Australia and Daniel Joll from New Zealand have made the coveted second ascent of the West Wall of Changabang (6880m) in India, first climbed by British mountaineers Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker in 1976.

Simon Richardson reports about the first ascent of the North Ridge of Ulvetanna on Senja Island in Norway, climbed on 23 April 2022 with Mark Robson. This is possibly only the second ascent of the mountain.

Soline Kentzel from France and Sébastien Berthe have made a free ascent of Golden Gate on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.

Interview with Andrea Lanfri, the Paralympic athlete and mountaineer from Lucca recently arrived in Nepal with mountain guide Luca Montanari to attempt to climb Everest

From 21 to 23 February Antar Machado, Sebastian Pelletti and Hernán Rodriguez completed the skyline traverse of Grupo La Paz in the Cordillera Riesco in Patagonia, Chile. The trio climbed ‘Ayayema Wesqar’ alpine style from west to east past difficulties up to 5.11- and bivied two nights in between the...

The report by Swiss mountaineer Silvan Schüpbach who recently established two new mixed climbs in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland: Putins Paranoia Trip on Ärmighorn with Janluca Kostner and Peace for Ukraine on Nüschleten with Michel Kipf and Tizian Tobler.

Juho Knuuttila reports about the first ascent of Entropi on the NW Face of Mt. Blokktind, carried out with Eivind Jacobsen on 04/03/2022. The stunning 1000m mixed climb has been described by the Finnish alpinist as 'one of the most beautiful winter lines I have seen in northern Norway.'