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Valeria, important new ice climb in the Brenta Dolomites
10/01/2013 - Alpinism
Valeria, important new ice climb in the Brenta Dolomites
On 6-7 January 2013 Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Via Valeria (270m, VI ice, M4+, VI+ rock) up the west face of Crozzon di Brenta, Dolomites. The route has been dedicated to Valeria Brunelli.
Corrado Pesce and his climbs in Patagonia
09/01/2013 - Alpinism
Corrado Pesce and his climbs in Patagonia
'How could I define the time spent in Patagonia. Expedition? Holiday? Journey? The right term is none of these' The trip report by Corrado Korra Pesce who has just spent a month in Patagonia which resulted in a series of ascents including a fast repeat of Supercanaleta up Fitz Roy...
Hellzapoppin', a journey through the history of climbing Ivo Ferrari
08/01/2013 - Climbing
Hellzapoppin', a journey through the history of climbing Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari and climbing trip back in time up Hellzapoppin', one of the most beautiful climbs in the Mediterranean, first ascended in 1977 by Gianni Battimelli, Fabrizio Antonioli, Paul Bellotti, Giorgio Mallucci and Cristiano Delisi.
New climbs in the Brenta Dolomites
05/01/2013 - Alpinism
New climbs in the Brenta Dolomites
Two difficult new routes in the Brenta Dolomites: the mixed climb 'Brothers' up Cima Grostè and the rock climb 'Ladri' up Campanile Basso.
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
02/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves as a reminder and as a source on inspiration for...
Bolts removed from Eternal Rest at Ceredo
30/12/2012 - Climbing
Bolts removed from Eternal Rest at Ceredo
On 10 December 2012 the bolts were removed from the sports climb Eterno Riposo, Eternal Rest, at Ceredo in Italy. On his blog Andrea Tosi, the man who first bolted the climb and now removed the bolts, explains his actions.
Jacopo Larcher 8b+ onsight at Montsant
29/12/2012 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher 8b+ onsight at Montsant
While Italian climbers Gabriele Moroni and Silvio Reffo are now at Siurana, at Montsant in Spain Jacopo Larcher has onsighted his second 8b+, Les Elements.
Youth climbing competitions and interview with Tina Johnsen Hafsaas
28/12/2012 - Interviews
Youth climbing competitions and interview with Tina Johnsen Hafsaas
An analysis of the youth climbing competition scene and interview with European Lead Tina Johnsen Hafsaas. An article by Franz Schiassi.
Andreas Fransson in Patagonia #2
Andreas Fransson in Patagonia #2
The second video of Andreas Fransson and his extreme skiing expedition to Patagonia, with the first ski descent of the Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot.
Andreas Fransson in Patagonia #2
Andreas Fransson in Patagonia #2
The second video of Andreas Fransson and his extreme skiing expedition to Patagonia, with the first ski descent of the Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot.
Alpinism, fabulous and silent, at Castello Provenzale
24/12/2012 - Alpinism
Alpinism, fabulous and silent, at Castello Provenzale
On 23 December Ivo Ferrari and Dario Spreafico repeated Lo Spigolo Maria Grazia on the East Face of Castello Provenzale (Valle Maira, Hautes Alpes). The report Ivo Ferrari.
The evolution of free climbing
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.
Lab test of carabiners used at belay stations
20/12/2012 - Gear
Lab test of carabiners used at belay stations
A sample of carabiners and quickdraws have been tested and analised by Emanuele Pellizzari at the Italian Mountaineering Club Gear and Techniques laboratory at Taggì di Sopra, Villafranca Padovana, Padova, Italy.
Mayan Smith-Gobat interview
20/12/2012 - Interviews
Mayan Smith-Gobat interview
Interview with New Zealand rock climber Mayan Smith-Gobat. Her ascent of Punks in the Gym at Arapiles, the Salathé Wall on El Capitan, the Nose Speed and more...
Markus Bock adds new desperates to the Frankenjura
19/12/2012 - Climbing
Markus Bock adds new desperates to the Frankenjura
Markus Bock has made the first ascent of four hard new climbs in Germany's Frankenjura, Reunion (8c), The Obsessed (8c+), The 4 Horsemen (8c+) and Witchtripper (9a).
New winter routes up Pizzo del Becco
19/12/2012 - Alpinism
New winter routes up Pizzo del Becco
On 8 and 9 December 2012 three new routes were established up the North Face of Piz Spallone Pizzo del Becco (Orobie, Alta Val Brembana, BG); Fò di B.A.L (250m, III - WI 2 - M5), Beccati questa Goulotte (250m, II - WI 2 - M4) and Bo (250m, II...