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Alexander Huber climbing Nirwana 8c+, Loferer Alm, Austria
Photo by archive Alexander Huber
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Alexander Huber, Sonnwand Nirwana above the Loferer Alm in Austria


In September 2012 Alexander Huber made the first ascent of the multi-pitch Nirwana 8c+ on Sonnwand, Loferer Alm, Austria.

Admittedly it's not the right time of year, but perhaps this report will get some people dreaming when the snows melt up on the Loferer Alm in Austria. This is dominated by the "striking" south face called Sonnwand - sun face - which hosts fifty or so beautiful rock climbs, most of which not too difficult. But among these lie some truly difficult outings, both physically and psychologically, often first ascended by Thomas and Alexander Huber.

The latest creation dates back to last year when the German alpinist Alexander Huber freed Nirwana, his most recent journey through the massive limestone overhang. This follows the first 4 pitches of Donnervogel before continuing independently and, just like nearby Sansara, Nirwana was established ground-up and alone. During the three days required to forge the line Huber breached some boulder sections and long runouts and he described the overall experience as "a true adventure in the heart of civilised Europe." The first free ascent came about in September, together with Michi Althammer, after a total of 22 days experienced in total Nirwana. That warrant 8c+.

04/11/2008 - Alexander Huber interview





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