2985 News found

Interview with the young Italian climber Jacopo Larcher, touching on the Red River Gorge, the Kalymnos Climbing Festival, the Dolomites and much more.

The video of the Petzl RocTrip 2012 which took place from 22 - 25 November 2012 at Piedra Parada, Argentina.

In July and August 2012 Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori returned to Turkey's Aladaglar massif where they established and freed "Nessuno" (470m, 8a+ max, 7b obligatory) up the North Face of Cima Vay Vay and "Radio Eksen" (200m, 7c max, 7a+ obligatory) in the Cimbar Valley.

On the North Face of Croz del Rifugio (Brenta Dolomites) Italian Mountain Guide Franco Nicolini has put up two new routes and reequipped the belays of his Via Elena (1988) as well as Via Bregtie, first climbed in 1963 by Cesare Maestri and Ernesto Carafoli.

Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Capo Pecora and the new trad climbs in Sardinia, Italy.

On Friday 16 November 2012 Patrick Edlinger died aged 52. The Frenchman was one of the early pioneers and absolute legends of sport climbing.

The report by Matteo della Bordella about his recent free ascent, together with David Bacci, of Freerider, the famous climb freed by Alexander and Thomas Huber on El Capitan, Yosemite.

Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same...

Video by Cédric Lachat of his climbs at the Red River Gorge, including footage of Michaël Fuselier, Daniel Woods and Adam Ondra.

Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson Jonathan Siegrist are currently working the crux central pitches of the demanding Dawn Wall project on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.

The 7th Piolet d’Or Asia 2012 was held in Seoul, Korea on 9/11/2012. The alpine award went to the Korean mountaineers Kim Chang-ho and An Chi-young, as well as Zhou Peng and Lee Shuang. Denis Urbko from Kazakhstan won the achievement award.

Four new rock climbs have seen the light of day in the Monte Oddeu massif (Dorgali, Sardinia). These 200m outings are entirely bolt protected, climb, splendid rock and fit in to "plaisir" category.

At the Red River Gorge (USA) Adam Ondra has on-sighted Golden Ticket and Pure Imagination which, as he states in his report, he feels are 8c+.

Manuel Brunn and Daniel Jung have both repeated The Elder Statesman 9a in the Frankenjura, Germany.

Climbing in Europe from the point of view of ace American climber Tommy Caldwell who ascended a series of difficult multi-pitches in Rätikon, Val Bavona and Wenden, including the repeat of Portami Via which included the first ascent of a pitch variation.

At Red River Gorge (USA) Adam Ondra has flashed Southern Smoke Direct 9a, while young Ashima Shiraishi has repeated the 8c+ climbs Southern smoke and Lucifer.