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New alpine sport climb on Rognon Vaudano (Mont Blanc) by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra
11/09/2024 - Alpinism
New alpine sport climb on Rognon Vaudano (Mont Blanc) by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra
On 27 August 2024 Italian mountain guides Niccolò Bruni and Gianluca Marra made the first ascent of 'C'era una volta il West' on Rognon Vaudano, below Dent du Géant in the Mont Blanc massif.
Rare repeat of Grand Diedre Desplomando on Trango Tower, the Nameless Tower of the Karakorum
10/09/2024 - Alpinism
Rare repeat of Grand Diedre Desplomando on Trango Tower, the Nameless Tower of the Karakorum
Earlier this summer an international team comprised of Martin Krasňanský, Michal Mikušinec and Tomáš Buček from Slovakia and František Bulička from the Czech Republic made a rare repeat of 'Grand Diedre Desplomando' on Trango Tower, aka Nameless Tower, Karakorum, Pakistan. The 1100m big wall was first ascended in 1987 by...
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
09/09/2024 - Alpinism
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
The preliminary details of the climbing expedition to Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter, which resulted in the first ascent of 'Odissea Borealis' (1200m, 35 pitches, 7b) on the hitherto unclimbed NW Face of Drøneren
Filip Babicz races up and down the 4 Matterhorn ridges in under 8 hours
06/09/2024 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz races up and down the 4 Matterhorn ridges in under 8 hours
On 01/09/2024 the Italian-Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz climbed the four ridges of the Matterhorn in 7 hours 43 minutes and 45 seconds. Furggen Ridge ascent, Hörnli Ridge descent, Zmutt Ridge ascent and Lion's Ridge descent, without external support and gear stashes on the mountain.
Lara Neumeier repeats Headless Children in Rätikon
06/09/2024 - Climbing
Lara Neumeier repeats Headless Children in Rätikon
On 30/08/2024 German climber Lara Neumeier, belayed by Nadine Wallner, redpointed 'Headless Children' (8b, 250m) on Schijenfluh in the Rätikon massif.
Francesco Favilli and Filippo Zanin perish in Dolomites climbing accident
05/09/2024 - Climbing
Francesco Favilli and Filippo Zanin perish in Dolomites climbing accident
Francesco Favilli and Filippo Zanin, two expert Italian mountaineers, died while climbing the south face of the Marmolada, Dolomites.
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of 'The Gift' in Rätikon
04/09/2024 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of 'The Gift' in Rätikon
Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl have made the first repeats of 'The Gift' (8c, 350m) on the Drusenfluh the Rätikon massif in Austria.
Canzio Bivouac on Grandes Jorasses & Borelli Bivouac on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey temporarily closed
03/09/2024 - Alpinism
Canzio Bivouac on Grandes Jorasses & Borelli Bivouac on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey temporarily closed
The Ettore Canzio Bivouac at Colle des Grandes Jorasses in Val Ferret and the Lorenzo Borelli Bivouac at Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in Val Veny, Mont Blanc massif, are temporarily unfit for use. The Italian Academic Alpine Club, owner of the huts, provides the details.
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
30/08/2024 - Alpinism
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
Papa Ionut and Alex Manoliu recently returned from the Ak-su valley in Kyrgystan, where they established Pamir Rainy Avenue (700m). The Romanian climbers report.
Nasim Eshqi & Sina Heidari climb to new heights for human rights awareness
29/08/2024 - Alpinism
Nasim Eshqi & Sina Heidari climb to new heights for human rights awareness
Iranian climber Nasim Eshqi and her parter Sina Heidari have established 'Rise up for human rights' on Le Minaret in the Mont Blanc massif with Michel Piola and 'Woman, Life, Freedom' on Catinaccio in the Dolomites with Gianni Trepin and Arianna Capra. The climbs form part of their 'When Mountains...
Colossal Dolomites enchainment by Dani Arnold, Simon Gietl
28/08/2024 - Alpinism
Colossal Dolomites enchainment by Dani Arnold, Simon Gietl
On August 9, 2024, Switzerland's Dani Arnold and Simon Gietl from the South Tyrol, Italy, climbed Einserkofel - Cima Una, Zwölferkofel - Croda dei Toni and Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Sexten Dolomites in a single day. A long enchainment via three big north faces, which the pair have...
Big new climb on Karakorum's Sckem Braq by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
27/08/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Karakorum's Sckem Braq by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
Italian mountaineers Chiara Gusmeroli and Matteo De Zaiacomo have etablished a new route on Sckem Braq, Karakorum, Pakistan. 900 meters high, the route was opened alpine style and consists of 26 pitches with difficulties up to 7a and A3.
Tre Cime Enchainment Integral - Micha Rinn, Christian Bickel complete first Skyline Traverse
26/08/2024 - Alpinism
Tre Cime Enchainment Integral - Micha Rinn, Christian Bickel complete first Skyline Traverse
On 23 and 24 July 2024 German alpinists Christian Bickel and Micha Rinn climbed all the peaks of the famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo skyline in one single push. Despite its obviousness, this is likely to be the first integral enchainment of these nine famous Dolomites peaks.
Sergey Nilov perishes on Gasherbrum IV, Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov safe in Skardu
22/08/2024 - Alpinism
Sergey Nilov perishes on Gasherbrum IV, Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov safe in Skardu
Russian mountaineers Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov are safely in Skardu. The pair was transported there by Pakistani military helicopter following the serac collapse on Gasherbrum IV which resulted in the death of Sergey Nilov.
Max Milne flashes Bewilderness, 8B+ boulder at Badger’s Cove, UK
20/08/2024 - Climbing
Max Milne flashes Bewilderness, 8B+ boulder at Badger’s Cove, UK
23-year-old British climber Max Milne has flashed 'Bewilderness' (8B+/V14) at Badger’s Cove in the Peak District, England. First climbed by Dan Varian, this is a rare flash of an 8B+ and only the first time this difficulty has been flashed on UK soil.
Sergey Nilov missing on Gasherbrum IV, Mikhail & Sergei Mironov descending after serac collapse
19/08/2024 - Alpinism
Sergey Nilov missing on Gasherbrum IV, Mikhail & Sergei Mironov descending after serac collapse
  • Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov are descending to 6100m where they will be rescued by Pakistani military helicopters
  • Russian mountaineer Sergey Nilov is reported missing on Gasherbrum IV after a serac collapsed. Climbing partners Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov are injured and awaiting evacuation.

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