1518 News found

Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila (27) has added two new mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen close to Narvik in Norway. 'Arctic Circus' (M6, WI6) was first ascended with Alexander Nordvall (29), while 'Polar Vortex' (M6, WI6) was established rope-solo. Knuuttila provides the details.

The deadline for the 2023 First Ascent Expedition Award is 28 February 2023. Promoted by the UK-based charity GRIT&ROCK, the annual expedition grant pool of USD10,000 is aimed at supporting female advancement in mountaineering

At Masua in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia, Cecilia Marchi and mountain guide Marco Bigatti have rebolted two multi-pitch routes, 'Non spezzarmi il cuore' and 'Hard o Soft?'. The two climbs are located on the Parete del Sol Levante, an incredible rock face of unparalleled wild beauty overlooking the sea. Oviglia reports

Paralpinism in the Dolomites: on 02/11/2022 Marco Milanese made a free solo and base jump from Torre Delago (2790m), one of the major Vajolet Towers in the Rosengarten massif, Italy.

On 10/12/2022 the two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher made the first ascent of Avatar, a new mixed climb up the NW Face of Sasso Pordoi in the Dolomites.

On 27/11/2022 up the SE Face of the Grandes Murailles (Pennine Alps) François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet and Stefano Stradelli made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Hyper Couloir delle Grandes Murailles - Couloir Franco Oberti'.

Nathan Heald reports about the first ascent of new route up the SE Face of Nevado Lasunayoc (5,936m) in the Pumasillo massif of the Cordillera Vilcabamba in Peru. The new mixed climb, carried out with local mountaineer Leo Rasalio, is only the 9th documented ascent of this peak.

On 11/11/2022 Silvan Schüpbach and Peter Von Känel started their winter climbing season early with the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Frigo-combo' (M7/6a, 450m) on the NW Face of Douves Blanches (Point 3582m) above Val d'Arolla in Switzerland. Schüpbach reports.

French photographer Alex Buisse introduces his 10 favourite climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. The routes feature in his stunning photographic topo guide to the range 'Mont Blanc Lines' (Vertebrate Publishing 2022).

In mid-October Ondrej Huserka (Slovakia) and Wadim Jabłoński (Poland) completed the first ascent of Gangotri Gambling (6c+ M6 A0, 600m) on Phaalkan Meenaar tower above the Kedar Tal valley in the Indian Garhwal Himalayas. The peak is named in honour of Andrzej Sokołowski.

At the crag Capanna Bill at Passo Fedaia (Marmolada, Dolomites) Andrea Milani made the first ascent of 'Absinthium'. This 50m outing is an extension to the 8c+ 'The Search' by Mario Prinoth and the 25-year-old has now suggested 9a.

In August 2022 Slovenian climber Luka Lindič freed one of hardest lines in the Julian Alps of Slovenia, 'Invisible Transformation' on the iconic face Ajdovska deklica, the Heathen Maiden, of Mount Prisojnik. The testing multi-pitch close to Kranjska Gora was established ground-up with his partner Ines Papert in the summers...

German rock climber Michael Wohlleben has made the first ascent of Bodhichitta, a highly technical 5-pitch route on Westliche Dreifaltigkeit in Switzerland.

54-year-old Swiss climber Chris Frick reports about his recent repeat of Stop Sika, an 8c at Rawyl in Switzerland.

The report by 24-year-old mountain guide Janluca Kostner from Ortisei (Val Gardena, Italy) who between 13 and 14 September 2022 made the first rope-solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Mt. Civetta (Dolomites). Graded IX, the route on the North West Face of Punta Civetta was established between 2007 and 2008...

UPDATE 28/09/2022: The body of Hilaree Nelson has been found on Manaslu and transported to Kathmandu.
- A huge avalanche on Manalsu in Nepal struck a dozen climbers yesterday, killing Sherpa Anup Rai. In an unrelated incident on the same mountain American ski mountaineer Hilaree Nelson is reported missing after skiing...