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Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.
Patagonia's Sarmiento West summit climbed alpine style by Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret, Nicolas Secul
22/05/2024 - Alpinism
Patagonia's Sarmiento West summit climbed alpine style by Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret, Nicolas Secul
A three-man Chilean expedition comprised of Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret and Nicolas Secul Ojeda has successfully climbed Monte Sarmiento West summit in Patagonia. Climbed alpine style, this is only the 4th ascent of the remote peak and the first repeat of the original route up the mountain, established in 1986...
Anak Verhoeven climbs Planta de Shiva for a second time, now sans kneepads
21/05/2024 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven climbs Planta de Shiva for a second time, now sans kneepads
At Villanueva del Rosario in Spain Anak Verhoven has climbed the 9b 'Planta de Shiva' for a second time in a week, this time without kneepads.
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
20/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain Guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70° ice/snow) is only the second ascent of the mountain. Following...
Great Trango Tower first ski descent by Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger, Jim Morrison
Great Trango Tower first ski descent by Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger, Jim Morrison
Alpinists Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger and Jim Morrison have made the first ski descent of Great Trango Tower (6286m) in Pakistan, skiing a steep, exposed and weaving line down the mountain's west face.
Anak Verhoven sends Planta de Shiva (9b) at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain
16/05/2024 - Climbing
Anak Verhoven sends Planta de Shiva (9b) at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain
Yesterday at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain the 27-year-old Belgian climber Anak Verhoven sent Planta de Shiva, becoming only the fourth woman in the world to climb a 9b after Angela Eiter, Laura Rogora and Julia Chanourdie.
The wonderful world called Melloblocco
13/05/2024 - Events
The wonderful world called Melloblocco
The Melloblocco, the largest bouldering meeting in the world which this year celebrated 20 years since its historic first edition, ended after four days of climbing and celebration. 2600 registered climbers and over 8000 people in total in the valley enjoyed 4 days of sun and untouched nature in Val...
Melloblocco Day 3: out of batteries, game over (for today)
10/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco Day 3: out of batteries, game over (for today)
Friday 9 May, the third day of Melloblocco 2024 in Val Masino and Val di Mello. Lots of sun, lots of smiles and bouldering until the batteries ran out.
Melloblocco day 2: projects, pads and pizzoccheri
09/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco day 2: projects, pads and pizzoccheri
Thursday 9 May, the second day of Melloblocco 2024 in Val Masino and Val di Mello. A day marked by sun, boulders, projects, pads and pizzoccheri.
Melloblocco day 1: the ritual recommences
08/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco day 1: the ritual recommences
Melloblocco 2024 day 1: the biggest bouldering meeting in the world officially begins today in Northern Italy, and Val Masino and Val di Mello have already welcomed the first climbers.
Leo Gheza Bike to Climb: 150km by bike + Opera Buffa at Arco rope solo
07/05/2024 - Alpinism
Leo Gheza Bike to Climb: 150km by bike + Opera Buffa at Arco rope solo
The report by Italian mountaineer Leo Gheza who on 29 April, after having cycled 150km, climbed "Opera Buffa" rope solo on Mount Colodri at Arco. Almost 300m high and with difficulties up to 7c+, Gheza climbed the entire route free after attempting the first 5 pitches 3 weeks earlier.
Speed & Boulder World Cups to take place in Salt Lake City, USA
03/05/2024 - Competitions
Speed & Boulder World Cups to take place in Salt Lake City, USA
The second stages of the Speed World Cup 2024 and Boulder World Cup 2024 will take place in Salt Lake City, USA, from 3 - 5 May 2024.
Melloblocco 2024, next week the world's biggest bouldering meeting in Italy's Val Masino and Val di Mello
02/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco 2024, next week the world's biggest bouldering meeting in Italy's Val Masino and Val di Mello
Melloblocco 2024 is just a few days away and preparations are in full swing. From 8 to 11 May 2024 Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy, will host the largest bouldering meeting in the world.
Big new mixed climb on Mt. Dickey in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge by Tom Livingstone, Gašper Pintar
02/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Mt. Dickey in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge by Tom Livingstone, Gašper Pintar
From 14-17 April 2024 Britain's Tom Livingstone and Slovenia's Gašper Pintar made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'The Great Wall' on the South Face of Mt. Dickey (2909m) in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska.
Melloblocco 2024 poster features Barbara Zangerl photographed by Klaus dell'Orto
28/04/2024 - Events
Melloblocco 2024 poster features Barbara Zangerl photographed by Klaus dell'Orto
Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl photographed by Klaus dell'Orto features on official Melloblocco 2024 poster. The largest bouldering and climbing meeting in the world will take place in Val di Mello - Val Masino from 8 to 11 May 2024, and the number of pre-registered participants has already exceeded 1600.
Remembering Patrick Berhault, on the 20th anniversary of his death
27/04/2024 - Climbing
Remembering Patrick Berhault, on the 20th anniversary of his death
20 years ago today, on April 28, 2004, the great French climber and mountaineer Patrick Berhault died while attempting to complete the 82 4000ers of the Alps in 82 days. The tribute by his friend Alessandro Grillo.

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