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Video: Directissime Walker on Grandes Jorasses climbed in winter by Charles Dubouloz, Clovis Paulin, Symon Welfringer
26/12/2024 - Alpinism
Video: Directissime Walker on Grandes Jorasses climbed in winter by Charles Dubouloz, Clovis Paulin, Symon Welfringer
The video of the first repeat and first winter ascent of the 'Directissime' on Pointe Walker on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses, carried out from 9 to 13 February 2023 by French alpinists Charles Dubouloz, Clovis Paulin and Symon Welfringer. The route was established in summer 1986...
US Congress passes Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act
20/12/2024 - Climbing
US Congress passes Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act
In what is being hailed as a momentous decision for climbing policy, US Congress has passed the Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act. Furthermore, the National Park Service has withdrawn its proposal to prohibit fixed anchors such as slings, pins, and bolts. This means that wilderness climbing will be protected by...
Legendary Alexander Huber frees 'Mythos' (8c+) at Barmsteine
19/12/2024 - Interviews
Legendary Alexander Huber frees 'Mythos' (8c+) at Barmsteine
Interview with 55-year-old German climber Alexander Huber after the first ascent of 'Mythos' (8c+) at Barmsteine in the Berchtesgadener Alps. The redpoint follows the first ascent of the 8b multipitch 'Überleben' (8b) at Brendelberg in July 2024 and after undergoing brain surgery at the start of the year.
Ice Climbing Festival 2025 at Eispark Osttirol, Austria
18/12/2024 - Events
Ice Climbing Festival 2025 at Eispark Osttirol, Austria
From 10 to 12 January 2025, the eighth Eiskletterfestival Osttirol Ice Climbing Festival, Austria, will take place at the Eispark Osttirol close to the Matreier Tauernhaus. This year's guest of honour will be the mountaineer Rudolf Hauser.
Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024/25, at Courchevel first medals and Olympic points for Milano Cortina 2026
16/12/2024 - Competitions
Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024/25, at Courchevel first medals and Olympic points for Milano Cortina 2026
The first stage of the 2024/2025 Ski Mountaineering World Cup was held in Courchevel, France last weekend. On Saturday the Sprint was won by Emily Harrop and Oriol Cardona Coll, while on Sunday the Vertical was won by Axelle Gachet-Mollaret and Remi Bonnet.
Great ski descents on Nevado Chachacomani in Bolivia
Great ski descents on Nevado Chachacomani in Bolivia
On 24 April 2024 Andri Bieger, Martin Kogler and Valentin Werner-Tutschku carried out three ski descents on Nevado Chachacomani (6074m) in Bolivia. It is highly likely that these lines have never been skied before.
Chronoception - A timeless ski and snowboard adventure in Kyrgyzstan
Chronoception - A timeless ski and snowboard adventure in Kyrgyzstan
The award-winning film Chronoception directed by Guillaume Broust, a timeless ski and snowboard adventure in Kyrgyzstan featuring Thomas Delfino, Léa Klaue, Aurélien Lardy, Hélias Millerioux and Jean-Yves Fredriksen.
Hannes Puman climbs The Nose free via Schnaz Variation
13/12/2024 - Climbing
Hannes Puman climbs The Nose free via Schnaz Variation
Climbing with Jamie Lowther from Scotland, Sweden's Hannes Puman has completed a free ascent of 'The Nose' on El Capitan in Yosemite via what is known as the Schnaz Variation.
New mixed climb 'Birthday Crack' in Langental, Dolomites
12/12/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb 'Birthday Crack' in Langental, Dolomites
Daniel Ladurner reports about the first ascent, carried out with Mathieu Maynadier and Francesco Favilli on 5 January 2024, of the mixed route 'Birthday Crack' in Vallunga / Langental, Dolomites, Italy. A way to remember Favilli, who died tragically in the mountains this summer along with Filippo Zanin.
Postcards from the Piolets d'Or #2
10/12/2024 - Alpinism
Postcards from the Piolets d'Or #2
The report of the second day of the Piolets d'Or 2024 in San Martino di Castrozza, Dolomites.
Saro Costa and the Ticino Alps 42 x 3000ers enchainment
05/12/2024 - Alpinism
Saro Costa and the Ticino Alps 42 x 3000ers enchainment
The report by Italian mountain guide Saro Costa of his Alpin’ Ticino Project, ie the link-up from 19 to 30 October 2024 of the 42 3000-meter mountains in the Ticino Alps in Switzerland. The only mountain not summited, due to too much snow and lack of daylight, was Kastelhorn.
San Martino di Castrozza gears up for Piolets d'Or 2024
04/12/2024 - Events
San Martino di Castrozza gears up for Piolets d'Or 2024
The 2024 edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place from 8 - 11 December 2024 in San Martino di Castrozza, Dolomites, Italy.
Baunei Sportclimbing 2025, the new guidebook to Sardinia's east coast by Maurizio Oviglia
29/11/2024 - Book-press
Baunei Sportclimbing 2025, the new guidebook to Sardinia's east coast by Maurizio Oviglia
The third edition of 'Baunei, Sport climbing', the compact climbing guidebook by Maurizio Oviglia, has been published by Pietra di Luna Edizioni. One of the best-selling guidebooks to the east coast of Sardinia, Italy, features all the crags in the Baunei area, as well as the multi-pitch climbs on Pedra...
New climb on Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) by Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
28/11/2024 - Alpinism
New climb on Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) by Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
The report and route topo of 'Hasta la vista' (8-/RS3/I), a new multi-pitch climb established on the West Face of Coston d'Averau (Nuvolau, Dolomites) by Czech mountaineers Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka and Anna Coubalová.
Simon Gietl frees 'Blutsbrüder' on Torre Trieste in Civetta, Dolomites
27/11/2024 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl frees 'Blutsbrüder' on Torre Trieste in Civetta, Dolomites
South Tyrolean mountain guide Simon Gietl frees has made the first free ascent of 'Blutsbrüder', the multipitch he established with Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer in autumn 2022 on Torre Trieste in Civetta, Dolomites.
It goes again, boys! Barbara Zangerl interview after Freerider flash on El Cap
25/11/2024 - Interviews
It goes again, boys! Barbara Zangerl interview after Freerider flash on El Cap
Interview with Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl after her ground-breaking, historic flash ascent of 'Freerider' on El Capitan in Yosemite.

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