1729 News found
13/01/2023 - Interviews
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
27/12/2022 - Alpinism
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer From 4 - 7 August 2022 Caro North, Capucine Cotteaux and Nadia Royo Cremer made the first ascent of Via Sedna up the unclimbed East face of Northern Sun Spire in Greenland. The trio established the impressive 780m 7b+/A0 after travelling to the mountain by sailing boat from France with...
21/12/2022 - Climbing
Simon Lorenzi repeats Alphane (9A) at Chironico, Switzerland 25-year-old Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi has made the fourth ascent of Alphane, the 9A boulder problem at Chironico in Switzerland first ascended by Shawn Raboutou in April 2022 and repeated in October by Aidan Roberts and Will Bosi.
16/12/2022 - Climbing
New Tsaranoro multipitch in Madagascar by Thibau Grandjean, Jan Novak In July 2022 Jan Novak and Thibau Grandjean made the first ascent of Circoncision (150m, 7a+) a new 150m multipitch on Lemur Wall in the Tsaranoro mountains of Madagascar. Novak, usually behind the lens of his camera, reports.
07/12/2022 - Environment
Vanishing giants: the tropical glaciers of Colombia facing extinction Colombian mountaineer, photographer and documentary filmmaker Gustavo Acosta shares his knowledge and photographs about the shrinking tropical glaciers of Colombia.
05/12/2022 - Alpinism
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio Nathan Heald reports about the first ascent of new route up the SE Face of Nevado Lasunayoc (5,936m) in the Pumasillo massif of the Cordillera Vilcabamba in Peru. The new mixed climb, carried out with local mountaineer Leo Rasalio, is only the 9th documented ascent of this peak.
14/11/2022 - Book-press
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif French photographer Alex Buisse introduces his 10 favourite climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. The routes feature in his stunning photographic topo guide to the range 'Mont Blanc Lines' (Vertebrate Publishing 2022).
09/11/2022 - Interviews
Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co Interview with Sebastian Pelletti after the first ascent of three new big routes in the Vampire Peaks area of Northwest Territories/Yukon in Canada, established with Michael Pedreros, Hernan Rodriguez Salas and the photographer Pato Diaz: 'Viaje Boreal' on Mount Dracula, 'Flow Latino' on Mount Dracula and 'Natural Mystic' on Dawn...
25/10/2022 - Alpinism
Invisible Transformation added to iconic Ajdovska deklica in Slovenia by Luka Lindič, Ines Papert In August 2022 Slovenian climber Luka Lindič freed one of hardest lines in the Julian Alps of Slovenia, 'Invisible Transformation' on the iconic face Ajdovska deklica, the Heathen Maiden, of Mount Prisojnik. The testing multi-pitch close to Kranjska Gora was established ground-up with his partner Ines Papert in the summers...
16/10/2022 - Climbing
Goodbye to Glen Denny, climber and photographer of Yosemite’s Golden Age American rock climber and photographer Glenn Denny (1939 - 2022) has passed away. Author of numerous classics such as West Face of Leaning Tower and Astroman, his images captured the Golden Age of rock climbing in Yosemite National Park.
12/10/2022 - Alpinism
Monviso NNW Ridge in winter, following in the footsteps of Patrick Berhault. By Barbara Vigl Barbara Vigl reports about her winter ascent, carried out with David Göttler in March 2022, of the NNW Ridge of Monviso in Italy. The first winter ascent was carried out by Patrick Berhault in 2001, as Ivo Ferrari explains in his introduction.
30/09/2022 - Alpinism
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan Slovakian alpinist Juraj Švingál reports about Dry Ice Queen (M9- WI6+), a 21-pitch technical mixed climb ascended with Marek Radovský on Mount Zabor in the Kookshal Too massif in Kyrgyzstan. Ascended alpine style on 13 and 14 August 2022, it is believed that this is a new route.
22/09/2022 - Alpinism
Caput Mundi added to Cima Roma in Brenta Dolomites by Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi, Matteo Pavana On the south face of Cima Roma (Brenta Dolomites) Alessandro Beber, Matteo Pavana and Alberto Fedrizzi have made the first ascent of 'Caput Mundi' (360m, VII). Pavana and Beber pro idea the details.
08/09/2022 - Alpinism
Halli Galli and La perla nera climbed in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl, Florian Harasser Florian Harasser reports about the first ascent, carried out with Simon Gietl, of two new multipitch climbs in Val Badia / Gadertal in the Dolomites: 'Halli Galli' on Crep de Boè and 'La perla nera' on Torre Colfosco.
05/09/2022 - Competitions
Luka Potocar and Ai Mori control Koper The fifth stage of the 2022 Lead World Cup was won on Saturday evening at Koper in Slovenia by home athlete Luka Potocar and Ai Mori from Japan. For both athletes this is their first victory in the Senior Lead World Cup
31/08/2022 - Climbing
Remembering Wolfgang Güllich, one of greatest climbers of all times 30 years ago today German climbing legend Wolfgang Güllich died in a car crash aged just 31. He established the world’s first 8b, the world’s first 8b+, the world’s first 8c and, with Action Directe in Frankenjura, the world’s first 9a. A truly visionary figure, his influence extends well beyond...
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