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New route on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia by Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza, Sean Villanueva
16/01/2023 - Alpinism
New route on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia by Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza, Sean Villanueva
On 10/01/2023 Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza and Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completed the first ascent of '¿Qué mirás, bobo?' (7b, 500m) on the east face of Aguja Mermoz (2732m) in the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia. After a bivouac on the summit the trio descended to El Chalten the next...
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
13/01/2023 - Interviews
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Manaslu climbed in winter by Alex Txikon & team
06/01/2023 - Alpinism
Manaslu climbed in winter by Alex Txikon & team
Alex Txikon, with Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Gelu Sherpa, Maila Sherpa, Mantere Lama Sherpa, Gamje Babu Sherpa and Chepal Sherpa, summited Manaslu in winter and without supplementary oxygen. This is the first integral winter ascent of the 8th highest mountain in the world, i.e. during the astronomical winter.
Bat Cave, the new crag at Buzet in Croatia
05/01/2023 - Climbing
Bat Cave, the new crag at Buzet in Croatia
Austrian climber Angela Eiter introduces Bat Cave, the new crag at Buzet in Croatia she bolted with climbing partner Bernie Ruech
Giovanni Placci blasts Bombardino at Arco, Italy
26/12/2022 - Climbing
Giovanni Placci blasts Bombardino at Arco, Italy
On 21/12/2022 Giovanni Placci made the third ascent of Bombardino ay Bus de La Stria close to Arco, Italy, following in the footsteps of Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi.
Stefano Ghisolfi makes first repeat of Bombardino (9a+) at Arco
15/12/2022 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi makes first repeat of Bombardino (9a+) at Arco
On 13/12/2022 Stefano Ghisolfi made the first repeat of Bombardino 9a+ at Arco.
New mixed climb added to Sass Pordoi (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
13/12/2022 - Alpinism
New mixed climb added to Sass Pordoi (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
On 10/12/2022 the two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher made the first ascent of Avatar, a new mixed climb up the NW Face of Sasso Pordoi in the Dolomites.
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
05/12/2022 - Alpinism
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio
Nathan Heald reports about the first ascent of new route up the SE Face of Nevado Lasunayoc (5,936m) in the Pumasillo massif of the Cordillera Vilcabamba in Peru. The new mixed climb, carried out with local mountaineer Leo Rasalio, is only the 9th documented ascent of this peak.
Silvo Karo / Interview with the climbing legend from Slovenia
18/11/2022 - Interviews
Silvo Karo / Interview with the climbing legend from Slovenia
Interview with Slovenian climbing legend Silvo Karo who this weekend at Briançon in France will receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière - Lifetime Achievement Award 2022 for his mountaineering that spans the last four decades and includes more than 300 first ascents from the Alps to Patagonia. By Bulgarian journalist Tanya...
Frigo-combo climbed on Douves Blanches by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter Von Känel
17/11/2022 - Alpinism
Frigo-combo climbed on Douves Blanches by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter Von Känel
On 11/11/2022 Silvan Schüpbach and Peter Von Känel started their winter climbing season early with the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Frigo-combo' (M7/6a, 450m) on the NW Face of Douves Blanches (Point 3582m) above Val d'Arolla in Switzerland. Schüpbach reports.
Ines Papert makes free ascent of her Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm
04/11/2022 - Alpinism
Ines Papert makes free ascent of her Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm
Ines Papert has made a free ascent of Wolke 7 on Hintere Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm in the Berchtesgaden Alps in Germany. The 350m 8a was established ground-up by the German climber in 2020 with her Slovenian husband Luka Lindič, who also made the first free ascent. Papert reports.
Invisible Transformation added to iconic Ajdovska deklica in Slovenia by Luka Lindič, Ines Papert
25/10/2022 - Alpinism
Invisible Transformation added to iconic Ajdovska deklica in Slovenia by Luka Lindič, Ines Papert
In August 2022 Slovenian climber Luka Lindič freed one of hardest lines in the Julian Alps of Slovenia, 'Invisible Transformation' on the iconic face Ajdovska deklica, the Heathen Maiden, of Mount Prisojnik. The testing multi-pitch close to Kranjska Gora was established ground-up with his partner Ines Papert in the summers...
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022
07/10/2022 - Alpinism
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022
Slovenian alpinist Silvo Karo is to receive the 14th Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated from 17 to 20 November at Briançon in France. In the past the prestigious mountaineering prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot,...
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites
29/09/2022 - Alpinism
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites
The report by 24-year-old mountain guide Janluca Kostner from Ortisei (Val Gardena, Italy) who between 13 and 14 September 2022 made the first rope-solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Mt. Civetta (Dolomites). Graded IX, the route on the North West Face of Punta Civetta was established between 2007 and 2008...
Hilaree Nelson and Anup Rai perish on Manaslu
27/09/2022 - Alpinism
Hilaree Nelson and Anup Rai perish on Manaslu
UPDATE 28/09/2022: The body of Hilaree Nelson has been found on Manaslu and transported to Kathmandu.
- A huge avalanche on Manalsu in Nepal struck a dozen climbers yesterday, killing Sherpa Anup Rai. In an unrelated incident on the same mountain American ski mountaineer Hilaree Nelson is reported missing after skiing...
Filip Babicz climbs Mont Blanc’s Grand Capucin in just 49 minutes
25/09/2022 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz climbs Mont Blanc’s Grand Capucin in just 49 minutes
On 23/09/2022 Filip Babicz climbed Grand Capucin in the Mont Blanc massif in just 49 minutes solo and without a rope via the Swiss Route and O Sole Mio exit.

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