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Simon Gietl completes rope-solo first ascent of stunning Dolomites Peitlerkofel NW Pillar Arête
17/07/2022 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl completes rope-solo first ascent of stunning Dolomites Peitlerkofel NW Pillar Arête
Last week Simon Gietl completed a new route up the Arête of the North-West Pillar of Peitlerkofel / Sass de Putia (2875m) in the Dolomites. The South Tyrolean mountaineer climbed alone and rope-solo and made one bivouac on the climb.
Pietro Radassao at Colle dell'Orso frees Homo Vitruvianus 8c+
14/07/2022 - Climbing
Pietro Radassao at Colle dell'Orso frees Homo Vitruvianus 8c+
At Colle dell'Orso close to Frosolone (Molise, Italy) Pietro Radassao has made the first ascent of Homo Vitruvianus 8c+.
Stairway to Heaven in Val Baione (Valle Camonica), Italy
07/07/2022 - Alpinism
Stairway to Heaven in Val Baione (Valle Camonica), Italy
On Cima Bacchetta, at the foot of Italy’s Mount Concarena (Val Baione - Valle Camonica) Leonardo Gheza and Angelo Contessi have made the first ascent of Stairway to heaven. The new route is dedicated to Luca Ducoli.
Wildfires burn Oliana in Spain
22/06/2022 - Environment
Wildfires burn Oliana in Spain
Wildfires raging across Spain have also burnt beneath Oliana, one of the most famous crags in the world.
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl
15/06/2022 - Alpinism
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl
Last summer Austrian climbers Benedikt Hiebl and Barbara Vigl made the first ascent of Erebor, an 11-pitch climb on the SE Face of Arnplattenspitze (2171m) in the Wetterstein massif. Vigl reports
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Oltreconfine, demanding multipitch on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia
03/06/2022 - Alpinism
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Oltreconfine, demanding multipitch on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia
Polish rock climber Aleksandra Taistra has made the first repeat of Oltreconfine on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia, established by Fabio Palma, Matteo Della Bordella and Domenico Soldarini in 2006 and 2007.
Marek Raganowicz completes 35-day big wall solo first ascent on Baffin Island’s Polar Sun Arm
01/06/2022 - Alpinism
Marek Raganowicz completes 35-day big wall solo first ascent on Baffin Island’s Polar Sun Arm
From 17 April to 21 May 2022 Polish mountaineer Marek Raganowicz climbed a new route solo on Polar Sun Arm, the huge buttress that guards Polar Sun Spire on Baffin Island in Canada. MikroKozmik Variations was climbed over 35 days past difficulties up to VII, A4+, M5 and, after...
Watch The Verdon Gorge - The Origins of Sport Climbing by Keith Ladzinski
24/05/2022 - Climbing
Watch The Verdon Gorge - The Origins of Sport Climbing by Keith Ladzinski
The short film 'The Verdon Gorge - The Origins of Sport Climbing' by American filmmaker Keith Ladzinski that explores the history of sport climbing in the Verdon Gorge in France through the eyes of François Guillot, Bruno Clément, Alan Carne, Matt Segal, Emily Harrington, Jonathan Siegrist.
Jugal Spire in Nepal climbed by Tim Miller, Paul Ramsden
18/05/2022 - Alpinism
Jugal Spire in Nepal climbed by Tim Miller, Paul Ramsden
Interview with British mountaineer Paul Ramsden who with Tim Miller completed an alpine style first ascent of The Phantom Line (1200m, ED+) up the north face of a previously unclimbed and unnamed 6563m peak now called Jugal Spire in the Jugal Himal region of Nepal
Jonas Schild repeats Gondo Crack, 8c trad crack at Cippo in Switzerland
03/05/2022 - Climbing
Jonas Schild repeats Gondo Crack, 8c trad crack at Cippo in Switzerland
Swiss climber Jonas Schild reports about his recent repeat of Gondo Crack, the 8c crack climb at Cippo in Switzerland freed by Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher in 2017. Schild placed all gear during his ascent
Firewall on Feuerhorn finally repeated by Guido Unterwurzacher, Simon Berger
26/04/2022 - Alpinism
Firewall on Feuerhorn finally repeated by Guido Unterwurzacher, Simon Berger
On 09/09/2021 Guido Unterwurzacher and Simon Berger made the first repeat of 'Firewall', a 300m 8b multipitch on Feuerhorn to the right of the famous 'End of Silence', established in 2003 by Alexander and Thomas Huber.
Michele Caminati, Francesco Deiana repeat Is not always Pasqua at Interprete, Italy
22/04/2022 - Climbing
Michele Caminati, Francesco Deiana repeat Is not always Pasqua at Interprete, Italy
Michele Caminati and Francesco Deiana have repeated Is not always Pasqua at Collina di Interprete. Graded E9 7a and established by Mauro Calibani in 2002, this is one of the hardest trad climbs in Italy.
Smooth Criminal uncovered in Floitental, Austria by Johannes Kehrer, Martin Sieberer
15/04/2022 - Alpinism
Smooth Criminal uncovered in Floitental, Austria by Johannes Kehrer, Martin Sieberer
Johannes Kehrer and Martin Sieberer have made the first ascent of Smooth Criminal (M9/WI7-/150m), a testing mixed climb established in the Floitental in Austria.
Goulotte Desperados climbed on Tour Ronde, Mont Blanc, by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra
04/04/2022 - Alpinism
Goulotte Desperados climbed on Tour Ronde, Mont Blanc, by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra
The report by Courmayeur mountain guide Gianluca Marra who, with his colleague Niccolò Bruni, has established Goulotte Desperados, a new mixed climb on that climbs the Col Occidental de la Tour Ronde in the Mont Blanc massif.
Symon Welfringer at Annot repeats Le Voyage, France’s hardest trad climb
31/03/2022 - Climbing
Symon Welfringer at Annot repeats Le Voyage, France’s hardest trad climb
French climber Symon Welfringer has repeated Le Voyage at Annot. The hardest trad climb in France was first ascended by James Pearson in 2017.
The Bird, a pearl of the Dolomites by Giovanni Groaz, Massimo Faletti
25/03/2022 - Alpinism
The Bird, a pearl of the Dolomites by Giovanni Groaz, Massimo Faletti
Daniel Ladurner introduces 'The Bird', a rarely repeated mixed climb in Langental / Vallunga, first ascended by Massimo Faletti and Giovanni Groaz in 2003. Initially called Gola del Pettirosso, this 'pearl of the Dolomites' was renamed by the first ascensionists in honour of Jim Bridwell.

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