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Frigo-combo climbed on Douves Blanches by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter Von Känel
17/11/2022 - Alpinism
Frigo-combo climbed on Douves Blanches by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter Von Känel
On 11/11/2022 Silvan Schüpbach and Peter Von Känel started their winter climbing season early with the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Frigo-combo' (M7/6a, 450m) on the NW Face of Douves Blanches (Point 3582m) above Val d'Arolla in Switzerland. Schüpbach reports.
Ines Papert makes free ascent of her Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm
04/11/2022 - Alpinism
Ines Papert makes free ascent of her Wolke 7 on Hinteres Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm
Ines Papert has made a free ascent of Wolke 7 on Hintere Feuerhörndl at Reiteralm in the Berchtesgaden Alps in Germany. The 350m 8a was established ground-up by the German climber in 2020 with her Slovenian husband Luka Lindič, who also made the first free ascent. Papert reports.
Le lion de Panshir at Cala Gonone in Sardinia rebolted / Brief interview with Yann Guesquiers
01/11/2022 - Climbing
Le lion de Panshir at Cala Gonone in Sardinia rebolted / Brief interview with Yann Guesquiers
Maurizio Oviglia recently rebolted one of Sardinia's iconic top-end sport climbs, Le lion de Panshir in the Millennium Cave at Cala Gonone and exchanged a few words with the first ascensionist, French ace Yann Guesquiers.
New Big Wall climbs on NW coast of Greenland
28/10/2022 - Alpinism
New Big Wall climbs on NW coast of Greenland
Over a period of 65 days Jacob Cook, Bronwyn Hodgins, Jaron Pham, Zack Goldberg-Poch, Angela Vanwiemeersch and Kelsey Watts explored the NW coast of Greenland where they established and repeated a series of new big wall climbs. Highlights of their by-fair-means expedition included the first ascent of Sea Barge Circus...
Invisible Transformation added to iconic Ajdovska deklica in Slovenia by Luka Lindič, Ines Papert
25/10/2022 - Alpinism
Invisible Transformation added to iconic Ajdovska deklica in Slovenia by Luka Lindič, Ines Papert
In August 2022 Slovenian climber Luka Lindič freed one of hardest lines in the Julian Alps of Slovenia, 'Invisible Transformation' on the iconic face Ajdovska deklica, the Heathen Maiden, of Mount Prisojnik. The testing multi-pitch close to Kranjska Gora was established ground-up with his partner Ines Papert in the summers...
Boxershorts added to Wilder Kaiser by Jonas Fertig, Luis Funk
19/10/2022 - Alpinism
Boxershorts added to Wilder Kaiser by Jonas Fertig, Luis Funk
German climbers Jonas Fertig and Luis Funk have made the first ascent of the multipitch Boxershorts ()7c, 100m) on Wilder Kaiser in Austria
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
17/10/2022 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award
The 2022 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be conferred from 18- 20 November at Briançon in France to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll of Belgium for his Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy Group in Patagonia, and to Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze from Georgia for the first ascent...
Michael Wohlleben adds Bodhichitta to Westliche Dreifaltigkeit in Switzerland
12/10/2022 - Climbing
Michael Wohlleben adds Bodhichitta to Westliche Dreifaltigkeit in Switzerland
German rock climber Michael Wohlleben has made the first ascent of Bodhichitta, a highly technical 5-pitch route on Westliche Dreifaltigkeit in Switzerland.
Chris Frick (54) climbs Stop Sika (8c) at Rawyl, Switzerland
06/10/2022 - Climbing
Chris Frick (54) climbs Stop Sika (8c) at Rawyl, Switzerland
54-year-old Swiss climber Chris Frick reports about his recent repeat of Stop Sika, an 8c at Rawyl in Switzerland.
Roger Schäli establishes Tierra del Fuego rope-solo on Roda Val della Neve in Switzerland
05/10/2022 - Alpinism
Roger Schäli establishes Tierra del Fuego rope-solo on Roda Val della Neve in Switzerland
44-year-old Roger Schäli has completed the first ascent, ground-up and rope-solo, of Tierra del Fuego on Roda Val della Neve in Switzerland.
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
30/09/2022 - Alpinism
Dry Ice Queen on Mount Zabor, difficult Slovakian mixed climb in Kyrgyzstan
Slovakian alpinist Juraj Švingál reports about Dry Ice Queen (M9- WI6+), a 21-pitch technical mixed climb ascended with Marek Radovský on Mount Zabor in the Kookshal Too massif in Kyrgyzstan. Ascended alpine style on 13 and 14 August 2022, it is believed that this is a new route.
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites
29/09/2022 - Alpinism
Janluca Kostner completes first solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Civetta, Dolomites
The report by 24-year-old mountain guide Janluca Kostner from Ortisei (Val Gardena, Italy) who between 13 and 14 September 2022 made the first rope-solo ascent of Chimera Verticale on Mt. Civetta (Dolomites). Graded IX, the route on the North West Face of Punta Civetta was established between 2007 and 2008...
Louis Gundolf repeats Safety Discussion, David Lama & Peter Ortner masterpiece in Lienz Dolomites
23/09/2022 - Alpinism
Louis Gundolf repeats Safety Discussion, David Lama & Peter Ortner masterpiece in Lienz Dolomites
Belayed by Jonathan Lechner, on 31/08/2021 Austrian climber Louis Gundolf repeated 'Safety Discussion', a difficult multipitch established in 2012 by David Lama and Peter Ortner on the South Face of Laserz in the Lienz Dolomites, Austria.
Caput Mundi added to Cima Roma in Brenta Dolomites by Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi, Matteo Pavana
22/09/2022 - Alpinism
Caput Mundi added to Cima Roma in Brenta Dolomites by Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi, Matteo Pavana
On the south face of Cima Roma (Brenta Dolomites) Alessandro Beber, Matteo Pavana and Alberto Fedrizzi have made the first ascent of 'Caput Mundi' (360m, VII). Pavana and Beber pro idea the details.
New free climb on Little Asan in Karavshin (Kyrgyzstan)
20/09/2022 - Alpinism
New free climb on Little Asan in Karavshin (Kyrgyzstan)
Patrick Tirler from the South Tyrol, Italy, reports about the first ascent of 'Ak-Kalpak' on Little Asan in the Kara-Su Valley in the Karavshin area of Kyrgyzstan's Pamir-Alai, carried out this summer with Moritz Sigmund.
Mountain Warriors added to Alam Kooh in Iran by Nasim Eshqi, Sina Heidari
16/09/2022 - Alpinism
Mountain Warriors added to Alam Kooh in Iran by Nasim Eshqi, Sina Heidari
Alpinists Nasim Eshqi and Sina Heidari have made the first ascent of Mountain Warriors on the hitherto unclimbed Sun Tower on Alam Kooh (Mount Alam-kuh), at 4850m the second highest mountain in Iran.