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XV Piolet d'or, the candidates
04/01/2006 - Events
XV Piolet d'or, the candidates
The six candidates for the prestigious Piolet d'or, promoted by the French Montagnes Magazine and awarded in Grenoble, France on 10 February.
Salvaterra, Cerro Torre and Maestri
24/11/2005 - Alpinism
Salvaterra, Cerro Torre and Maestri
Ermanno Salvaterra's intervention after his latest ascent on Cerro Torre with Rolando Garibotti and Alessandro Beltrami.
Salvaterra, Garibotti and Beltrami climb new route on Cerro Torre
17/11/2005 - Alpinism
Salvaterra, Garibotti and Beltrami climb new route on Cerro Torre
On 13/11/2005 Ermanno Salvaterra, Alessandro Beltrami and Rolando Garibotti reached the summit of Cerro Torre vie their new route 'El Arca de los Vientos' (The Arc of Winds), Patagonia.
Zero gravity days
26/10/2005 - Climbing
Zero gravity days
Patxi Usobiaga becomes the third person in the world to on-sight an 8c, 'Gaua' at Lezain (N. Spain). Wolfgang Güllich's Action Directe 9a has been repeated by Dai Koyamada and Markus Bock. Martina Cufar on-sights Paieda' 8a+ at Rodellar, Spain and Fred Rouhling makes the first ascent of "La voie...
Caldwell repeats The Nose!
20/10/2005 - Climbing
Caldwell repeats The Nose!
Yosemite news roundup. On 17 October Tommy Caldwell made a sub-12 hour ascent of the Nose, just days after his free ascent together with wife Beth Rodden. Nicolas Favresse from Belgium makes first ascent of L'Appât on El Capitan (VI 5.12d). Leo Houlding from England onsighted Half Dome's Regular Northwest...
Terra di Mezzo: new Caporal aid route by Folco and Gaggini
19/10/2005 - Climbing
Terra di Mezzo: new Caporal aid route by Folco and Gaggini
At the start of October Valerio Folco and Cristina Gaggini made the first ascent of the aid route Terra di Mezzo (A3), Caporal Valle dell'Orco, Italy
Le nez, P.ta Croz, Grandes Jorasses. New route for Bole and Cortese
03/10/2005 - Alpinism
Le nez, P.ta Croz, Grandes Jorasses. new route for Bole and Cortese
From the end of July to 4 Spetember Mauro 'Bubu' Bole and Mario Cortese made the first ascent of Le nez (1300m, max 7c), on the north face of P.ta Croz, Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc.
Great Trango new route by Kopold and Cmarik
16/09/2005 - Alpinism
Great Trango new route by Kopold and Cmarik
In mid-August Dodo Kopold and Gabo Cmarik from Slovakia made the first ascent of "Assalam Alaikum" UIAA VIII A2, ABO on Great Trango, Pakistan.
Il Piccolo Principe, Punta Larsei, new route
16/09/2005 - Climbing
Il Piccolo Principe, Punta Larsei, new route
Nicola Tondini and Dario Segato have made the first ascent of "Piccolo Principe" 250m, 8 pitches, max 7a+. on the south face of Punta dei Larsei, Sella, Dolomites.
House and Anderson forge new line up Rupal Face
14/09/2005 - Alpinism
House and Anderson forge new line up Rupal Face
Steve House and Vince Anderson have ascended a new route up the famous and immense Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat (8125m).
Atlas 2005: new line in Taghia for Stucchi & Co.
08/09/2005 - Climbing
Atlas 2005: new line in Taghia for Stucchi & Co.
Silvestro Stucchi & Co. climbs Mago Merlino (7b) on Tagoujimt N'Tsouiant (2977m), Taghia (High Atlas, Morocco).
Ala Daglar, Turkey, two new routes for Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan
04/08/2005 - Climbing
Ala Daglar, Turkey, two new routes for Larcher, Oviglia, Paissan
In July 2005 Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan made two first ascents in the Ala Daglar mountain chain (Southern Anatolia, Turkey): “Uc Muz”, 650 m, 8a max, 7b obl. on the east face of Demirkazik (3757 m); and “Mezza luna nascente” (270 m, 7c max, 7a+ obl.)...
New route on Lastoni di Formin
29/07/2005 - Climbing
new route on Lastoni di Formin
Love my dogs (7a, 300m), new route on Lastoni di Formin (Dolomites) by Mario Dibona and Gretchen Alexander.
Urubko and Samoilov summit Broad Peak via new route
26/07/2005 - Alpinism
Urubko and Samoilov summit Broad Peak via new route
At 11.30 on 25/07/2005 Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov reached the summit of Broad Peak (8.048m Himalaya, Karakorum) via a new route up the SW Face.
Up & Down freed by Brenna on Chogolisa
11/07/2005 - Alpinism
Up & Down freed by Brenna on Chogolisa
On 10 July Cristian Brenna and Giovanni Ongaro freed "Up & Down", the route on the Chogolisa's Central Pillar (5300m circa - S-SE) first ascended by Hervé Barmasse, Luca Maspes, Francesca Chenal and Brenna himself at the end of June.
Moro and Ogwyn summit Batokschi, but abandon Batura II
11/07/2005 - Alpinism
Moro and Ogwyn summit Batokschi, but abandon Batura II
After having reached the summit of Batokschi (6050m) via a new route Simone Moro and Joby Ogwyn's adventure on Batura II (7762m Pakistan - Karakorum), the highest still unclimbed peak in the world, has come to an abrupt end.

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