Atlas 2005: new line in Taghia for Stucchi & Co.
Silvestro Stucchi & Co. climbs Mago Merlino (7b) on Tagoujimt N'Tsouiant (2977m), Taghia (High Atlas, Morocco).
Another summer, another new route. The Italian Silvestro Stucchi has a habit of making quick climbing raids throughout the world. This time, in the company of
a Elena Davila, Enea Colnago, Riccardo Redaelli and Sonia Consoli he headed off to the immense Tagoujimt N'Tsouiant (2977m) at Taghia (High Atlas, Morocco). On the immense NE face the group established "Mago Merlino" (7b - AE), which after 350m of new terrain joins up with the 1987 Spanish route to the summit..
MAGO MERLINO, ATLAS MOUNTAIN
di Silvestro Stucchi
"I've just returned from Morocco, more precisely from Taghia. This is fascinating and enchanting, even if in a couple of years getting there will be less of an adventure as they are currently building a road from Zaouia and Taghia now has electricity in the evening!
About the weather in August: we had impossible heat in August (impossible to stay in the sun) to strong storms and a true flood! With the help of my friends we established, in turns given our health problems (stomach problems and fever) a new route on Tagoujimt N'Tsouiant (2977m).
"Mago Merlino" is the name we gave to the new route which takes a line up the NE Face. Its roughly 350 long and then joins up with the 1987 Spanish route (VI, III, IV). Calculate circa 600 m to reach the summit, grade 7b - AE (see topo). On the same face a Polish team established a new route, Fantasia, last May.
Our route was completed by our team (Silvestro Stucchi (C.A.A.I), Elena Davila, Enea Colnago, Riccardo Redaelli, Sonia Consoli) on 24 August after a 10 day stay in Taghia
Thanks to Cisalfa Sport-Longoni for the gear.
Photo: Tagoujimt N'Tsouiant, NE Face(2977m); Super Capitan (archivio Stucchi - Davila)