'The last way' at Erto freed by Luca Giupponi
The Italian Luca Giupponi frees 'The last way' at Erto after a crucial hold broke off
|On Saturday 30 March the Italian Luca Giupponi redpointed "The last way" at Erto, Itlay and suggested a grade of 8c+. In doing so he managed to make the first free ascent after a crucial hold broke off while he was attempting the route in spring 2000. |
The original line was bolted by Icio dallÂ´Omo and freed by Luca Zardini, who proposed a grade of 8c. Zardini repeated the route without the crucial hold but instead of finishing up the original line he exited up "Mocio" to create "The big mother" 8c+.
This is what Luca had to say about "The last way":
"I tried the route for the first time last year in spring and almost immediately broke the crux hold. And to add to this I injured a finger so I had to give it a miss. Then in autumn I gave it another go but.. I didnt stand a chance. So this spring I started to try the route again and managed to link the moves on the second weekend. The conditions were terrible on Saturday morning, the route was still wet. I put in the quickdraws, a good first attempt made me think that I could do it and later that evening I tried it once more. Conditions had improved and this one was decisive!
Im really pleased to have freed "The last way". The route is hard, intense and physical just the type of climbing that suits me. And I have to say that Erto has always brought me luck: in 1988 I onsighted "Acido lattico 7c", in 1992 I made the first ever flash of an 8b, "Ritorno di Ringo", flashed "Mister Rase" 8a+ and repeated "Sogni di Gloria" 8b+ , in 1995 the I made the first (and only?) onsight of "La conchiglia"8a/8a+, and now "The last way" Hoping that "nomen non est omen...
Goodbye to all
> Luca Zardini 'Canon' frees "The Big Mother"
> Cristian Brenna repeats "The Big Mother"
> Christian Bindhammer repeats "The Big Mother"
Luca Giupponi in action at Erto.
Photo Nicholas Hobley