Siebe Vanhee flashes Muy Caliente, E9 trad at Pembroke in Wales

On Tuesday the 19th of August 2025, Belgian climber Siebe Vanhee made the long-awaited first flash ascent of the trad climb Muy Caliente (E9, 6c) at Pembroke in South Wales. Located at Stennis Ford, was established by British climber Tim Emmett in 2010 and orignally graded E10 7a, but following a number of repeats over the years the grade has settled in at E9 6c. The climb boasts a technical crux far above good but extremely distanced gear, and with French 8a+/8b climbing it requires fingers and above all nerves of steel in order master the long runout.

Muy Caliente is well known to be one of the few routes of its genre that is flashable; as early as 2011 James Pearson attempted a first-go ascent, but fell off the last move. The Englishman set the record straight 3 years later when he achieved Britain’s first E9 flash with Something’s Burning at Pembroke. While E10 was flashed for the first and so far only time by Seb Berthe on Le Voyage at Annot in France in 2023, Adam Ondra took things to the next level entirely with his flash ascent of the E11 Lexicon at Pavey Ark earlier this year.

After his ascent, Vanhee commented: "The UK trad scene has always inspired me. The stories about the historical lines, how they where first climbed by legends, how they’ve been repeated by others. Climbing on Pembroke’s limestone seacliffs has been high on my list for a long time. Early this Spring I contacted Jim Pope to check if he would be available and psyched. I got a positive answer and we stuck to the plan!

I’ve never approached a flash attempt so seriously as this one. Seriously for me at least ;). Long enduro limestone routes are my style. Trad, runouts and the head game are what I love, it gets me into a great state of flow and joy.

Upon arrival in Pembroke I knew I would directly aim for the famous hard classics, this is what I came for. Although I didn’t want to jump blindly ground-up on every other route neither would I throw ropes from above if I would feel intimidated by a climb. I gathered info from the locals and some friends about how feasible an onsight, flash or head point ascent would be of the classics in my list.

Slowly it became clear I had it in me to give "Muy Caliente" a flash attempt. But like any other great flash, you always need someone giving you the beta, even more so in trad climbs with a high E grade where placing the right protection is crucial. Ben Heason has been part of the crew here these days and spend 3 hours chalking up and remembering the beta (he climbed the route many years ago).

I watched a video of Hazel Findley and one of James Pearson, but that was about it. After a rest day observing Ben and the holds from the opposite side of the gorge I decided it was time to just get on it the next day. It’s easy to postpone a try out of fear to choose the wrong moment.

The first 10 meters of the route are shared with the classic E6 6b "Ghost Train", from two threads "Muy Caliente" moves slightly left on small crimps and big moves. Before reaching the next in-situ thread at another 10m distance from the last protection you manage to place a small RP, key locking it into a thin crack. Next I placed a yellow Totemcam that gives some confidence to continue two more moves to a left handed mono from where you clip the thread and place another purple Totemcam.

Although it isn’t considered as the crux, getting the mono with the right hand was a real struggle for me. I even took out the yellow Totemcam and dropped it to be able to swap hands in an awkward hold. I was close to fall and got mega pumped but managed to get to an uncomfortable rest. After 5,5 minutes of pumping veins I decided I felt fresh enough to launch myself in the last (real) crux, more crimps!

I walked the moves as if they were part of the easy ending to the top thanks to the good Ben Heason beta. What a relief! If it wasn’t for that yellow totem I removed I wouldn’t have passed that middle section.

Onsighting and flashing hard trad climbs was the real goal of this trip. I’m so grateful for the amazing weather, the fun vibes, good support and incredible routes and rock quality. The trip is only halfway and the list of routes is still long! Can’t wait for more! Our current daily routine: Simon’s Field => Crag => Pub!"

Vanhee arrived in Wales 10 days ago and has since managed to onsight the following climbs: Point Blank (E8 6c), Mercia Wall (E8 6c), San Simian (E8 6c) and Boat to Naxos (E7 6b). Furthermore, he flashed Nothing to Fear (E8 6b), Do you know where your Children are? (E8 6c), The Black Lagoon (E6/E7 6b) and Half man, Half Beast (E6/E7 6b).