Alex Megos sends 9b in 4 days, Le bruit de l'acid at Claret

Germany's Alex Megos has made the first repeat of Le bruit de l'acid, the 9b in Claret, France established in April 2025 by Jules Marchaland. The route was the Frenchman's first of its grade and the 32-year-old has now confirmed the difficulties.

Megos travelled to this classic winter spot with the route in mind having seen photos and the video of the first ascent. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday he checked out the moves, then making the most of "a good breeze" he clinched the redpoint on Monday. The climb may well see more attention in the future as, according to Megos, it features "for sure one of the best moves I've ever done on a route!" Planetmountain contacted Megos briefly after his after his startling 4-day send.

9b in 4 day... can you put that into context?
I suppose it's fast, but 9b is still hard and requires full concentration and motivation. I travelled to France with the mindset that I'd like to climb 9b within a week. But I really have to give it my all and focus 100% on it.

Presumably it depends also on the type of route?
Yes. I knew the route would suit me well, that's why I saw a chance to do it in a week. I think with routes that aren't my style, that wouldn't be possible.

So what about the former benchmark 9a?
9a should go first try if everything clicks. Flash or onsight ideally. I always try to do 9a in a day, if at all possible. It's always a matter of preparation though. And with regard to doing 9a flash or onsight, much more concentration and preparation is needed than for doing a 9a in a day.

Last question? If you could choose between 9b or 9a onsight?
Hmmm. I think I'd prefer a 9a onsight to be honest.

Megos is sponsored by: Patagonia, Petzl

 

 

 

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