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Short cut 7c+ new route on Tsaranoro wall, Madagascar

At the end of September Florian Scheimpflug, Tomáš Sobotka, Ondra Benés and Harald Berger travelled to the Andringitra National Park in Madagascar where they made the first ascent of 'Short Cut' 7c+ 750m and a repeat of 'Bravo les Filles' 8b on the immense Tsaranoro wall.

PlanetMountain

November 2006

Traduci in

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Hermann Eber

At the end of September Florian Scheimpflug, Tom Sobotka, Ondra Benés and Hari Berger travelled to the Andringitra National Park in Madagascar where they made the first ascent of the 750m "Short Cut" 7c+ and a repeat of the 500m "Bravo les Filles" 8b on the immense Tsaranoro wall.

Short Cut takes the obvious black waterstreak up the central section of the main wall and was climbed and bolted by the mixed Austrian-Czech Republic team from the ground-up. The 16 pitches were redpointed on 30 September and according to the first ascentionists the compact granite led to long run-outs at times. After a short rest both Berger and Benés redpointed "Bravo les Filles", first ascended in 1999 by Lynn Hill, Beth Rodden, Nancy Faegan and Kath Pike in and first freed by the Spanish Pou brothers in 2004.

For more information about the Tsaranoro massif check out www.climbandmore.com

Short Cut
F.A. Florian Scheimpflug, Tom Sobotka, Ondra Benés, Hari Berger 21.-26.9.06; 1st RP 30.9.06
Grade: 7c+
Length: 750 m, 16 pitches (11p. over 7a)
Pitches: 6b, 6c, 6a, 6b, 7c+, 7a+, 7a+, 7a+, 7a, 7a, 7b+, 7b, 7b+, 7c, 7b+, 6a
Gear: 2x60m rope
Descent: abseil down route or walk down (1.5h)

photo: during the first ascent of Short Cut 7c+, photo Hermann Eber