Roland Hemetzberger discovers Zillertal's Golden Secret

Hemetzberger and his climbing partner Fabian Hagenauer rebolted the first pitch as this followed a seeping crack and this was freed at 8b+. After a brief rest Hemetzberger then continued up pitch 2, a fierce crack protected with trad gear only. "The second pitch contains no bolts and placing the nuts and cams is so difficult that I couldn't do it on the actual lead which is why I climbed this pitch with some pre-placed gear" recounts Hemetzberger, who after having sent this 8a+ then went on to redpoint the remaining two pitches, a 6b that leads to a difficult 8b finish.

The circa 100m Golden Secret faces south, is best climbed in spring or autumn, and now checks in as the hardest multi-pitch route in the Zillertal.