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Roland Hemetzberger making the first ascent of Golden Secret (8b+, 100m) Zillertal, Austria
Photo by Stefan Kühn
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Roland Hemetzberger discovers Zillertal's Golden Secret


This spring Roland Hemetzberger from Germany made the first free ascent of Golden Secret (8b+, 100m) Zillertal, Austria.

German climber Roland Hemetzberger has made the first ascent of Golden Secret, a four pitch 8b+ in Austria's Zillertal. The route is located on the Mühlwand and had been attempted in the past by valley local Gerhard Hörhager who had told Hemetzberger about the line earlier this year.

Hemetzberger and his climbing partner Fabian Hagenauer rebolted the first pitch as this followed a seeping crack and this was freed at 8b+. After a brief rest Hemetzberger then continued up pitch 2, a fierce crack protected with trad gear only. "The second pitch contains no bolts and placing the nuts and cams is so difficult that I couldn't do it on the actual lead which is why I climbed this pitch with some pre-placed gear" recounts Hemetzberger, who after having sent this 8a+ then went on to redpoint the remaining two pitches, a 6b that leads to a difficult 8b finish.

The circa 100m Golden Secret faces south, is best climbed in spring or autumn, and now checks in as the hardest multi-pitch route in the Zillertal.





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