Luca Marzari, 8c at Covolo and Rodellar

UNA VIDA NOMADA by Luca Marzari

After a few sessions at the gym due to the bad weather during all of September, I finally returned to my local crag to touch some good old rock and try a new challenge! I was inspired by Una vida nomad since this suits my style of climbing: small holds, far apart and not particularly good. Small, elusive holds and, since a hold broke, a difficult clip at the third bolt are followed by a series of slopers and pinches where good footwork is essential.

On Thursday 25, after school and a quick lunch, I hopped into the car and drove to Covolo, motivated to send the line. Initial sensations had been good and I'd fallen from the top on my second go. So after warming up quickly on Thursday, I set off but fell in the hard section as my cold hands slipped off a sloper. On my second go I climbed past the crux but then my foot slipped off; fairly demotivated I decided to give it one more go... I set off determined and manage the redpoint, 5th go spread out over 2 days. Thanks goes to Gianluca Bosetti who accompanied and supported me and to my parents who encourage and foster my love for climbing.


Thanks to Mammut and La Sportiva