Loïc Zehani frees Mossoul 9b/b+ at Orgon in France

France's Loïc Zehani is on course to putting Orgon back in the international spotlight. In the mid-90’s this crag was one of the most difficult in the world, with routes in the Canal sector created artificially in order to require a hitherto unseen level of stamina and endurance needed for sport climbing competitions. Climbs such as Macumba Club, La connexion and Le Bronx were some of the most testing routes of their era and glossed climbing magazines worldwide, but with the advent of steeper routes and the nigh limitless limestone in Spain, climbers quickly moved on elsewhere.

Orgon made headline news in May 2022 when Zehani freed the intense 30-move Chikane, the crags first 9b, and now the 21 year-old has taken things a stage further with his first ascent of Mossoul. This shares the start of the 9a+ Le poisson pilote before finishing up an even harder exit variation, and required about a dozen days of effort this year, after having previously redpointed Le poisson pilote. Zehani has suggested 9b/b+ for this intense 30-move mix of "pockets, verticals, underclings, crimps".