Josune Bereziartu and Bimbaluna 9a/9a+
On 09/05/2005 Josune Bereziartu made the first female ascent of Bimbaluna 9a/9a+ at Saint Loup, Switzerland, pushing the scale of female performances up one notch.
Josune Bereziartu continues to be at the forefront of women's climbing, and not only this. At the start of May the strong Spanish climber sent Bimbaluna 9a/9a+. In doing so she has pushed the top female ascents up a notch once again, after the first female 8c, 8c+, and 9a.
The route in question was first ascended in March 2004 by François Nicole, Fred Nicole's elder brother, at Saint Loup in Switzerland. Bimaluna is very similar in style to the nearby Bain de Sang, climbed by Josune at the end of 2002.
Josune wrote to us about bimbaluna and her future projects. One thing is certain: power, and above all motivation, are not not lacking!
BIMBALUNA 9a/9a+ SAINT LOUP
"I chose Bimbaluna 9a/9a+ because I know that the style suites me a lot. You know for that grades every is impportant. I feel the route is bit harder than 9a so maybe the best grade is that suggested by Francois Nicole.
It hasn't had any repeats so this is first repeat. I was in Switzerland for a month and of all those days I could climb the route for only 10 days, with a media of 2/3 tries per day.
After coming from Japan I started to train, focused for that route. I trained as hard as I could, focusing on the route, which is not very long and has a very concentrated bouldery section in the midlle.
From the very begining I felt good in the route, day by day I progressed, and the week before I sent it I felt close to climbing it. But this is something very subjetive, those blouldery routes are very special and you can fall thousands of times times or one day you suddenly do the move.
First 8c was in 1998 Honky Tonky
First 8c+ was in 2000 Honky Mix
First 9A was in 2002 Bain de Sang
First 9a/9a+ Bimbaluna on 09/05/2005
I think that I'm at my current limit, but every year I surprise myself, so if I'm motivated enough to go ahead, who knows...
My plans are tp climb and climb for the moment. I don't know where, but climb and climb."