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Connor Herson climbs Yosemite's legendary Magic Line

American climber Connor Herson has made a rare repeat of 'Magic Line' (8.14c/8c+), one of the most difficult crack climbs in Yosemite Valley.

Planetmountain

October 2024

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Connor Herson, belayed by Barbara Zangerl, climbing 'Magic Line' (8.14c/8c+) at Vernal Falls, Yosemite. The climb was first ascended by Ron Kauk in 1996 with pre-placed gear, and climbed without pre-placed gear for the first time by his son Lonnie Kauk in 2018

Jacopo Larcher

American climber Connor Herson has started his autumn climbing season in Yosemite on a roll with a quick repeat of Magic Line, the stunning thin crack climb located at the base of the Vernal Falls. First ascended by legendary Stonemaster Ron Kauk back in 1996 with pre-placed gear, it had to wait until 2016 for its second ascent, at the hands of Kauk's son, Lonnie. In November 2018 Kauk junior took things to their logical conclusion and climbed the route placing all the gear on lead, confirming the route's beauty and 5.14c difficulty. Hazel Findlay made the first female ascent in 2019, and since then only Carlo Traversi has managed to repeat the 35m line, in 2021.

Herson first attempted the crack over a handful of days last winter but abandoned the route due to poor conditions. He returned this autumn, invested one session working the moves on his own, then sent it on his first lead attempt this season, belayed by Barbara Zangerl.

The 21-year-old first shot to fame in 2015 when, aged a mere 15, he completed a rare free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan. Since then he has gone from strength to strength and despite his somewhat understated approach is widely recognised as possessing an exceptionally rare talent.