Akut - Tre Cime di Lavaredo

On 13 to 15 August the Italian Kurt Astner made the first free ascent of Akut, his route first climbed in August 2000 on the impressive north face of the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo.

PlanetMountain.com

September 2001

Traduci in

On 13 to 15 August the Italian Kurt Astner made the first free ascent of Akut, his route first climbed in August 2000 on the impressive north face of the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo. By freeing the route he completes the project, started a year ago with Urban Ties, to climb something new, and hard, on the Tre Cime. Akut is Astner’s 5th new route on these immense Lavaredo walls, as he has already climbed 3 with Cristoph Hainz and 1 with Kurt Brugger.

August 2000
The two chose a line on the right-hand side of the north face of the Cima Ovest, a section breached only by T. Gross’ “Sussurro di fiori”. Poor conditions and ice on the final pitches forced the couple to put off their redpoint attempts until the next year.

The route
15 pitches lead up Akut; 500m high, equipped with bolt belays and pegs along the pitches, it starts 100 to the right of Baur and leads through the large roofs on the right. Near the top it crosses the Cassin traverse, continues through a 3m roof in the yellow overhanging section and finishes up fantastic grey slabs.

August 2001
On 13 August 2001 they started again by cleaning and freeing the first four pitches. Two days later they climbed along the “Cassin” to their highppoint and then continued along the new line, with difficulties up to 8a max and 7b obligatory.

Akut, according to Kurt and Urban
“The first few pitches are extremely overhanging and the rock is a bit chossy. At half-height the rock is great but the climbing is more sustained and demanding. The crux pitch is the tenth, with its powerful moves through the 3m roof. The final 5 pitches are the best we’ve ever climbed on the Tre Cime…”

Large photo:
Kurt Astner climbing though the roof
From top to bottom:
the route; Kurt and Urban at the 5th belay, Kurt climbing through the large roof, Urban Ties on the 6th pitch.

Photos Harald Gasser.

AKUT

Length: 15 pitches
Height: 500 m
Grade: 8a max, 7b obl.
Time: 12-14 ore
Gear: olt belays and pegs along the pitches. A set of wires and friends may be found necessary as the in-situ gear can be run-out.
First ascent: Kurt Astner and Urban Ties over a 5 day period in August 2000.
First free ascent: Kurt Astener 13 and 15/08/2001.

Latest news

29/05/2026

Four big new Norway mixed climbs by Ines Papert & co

28/05/2026

Farewell to Mario Conti, legendary Ragni di Lecco mountaineer who scaled Cerro Torre

27/05/2026

K7 east face: the objective for Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Ducoli, Mirco Grasso, Giacomo Mauri

26/05/2026

Marmotta Volante added to Torre Grande di Falzarego (Dolomites) by Christoph Hainz

25/05/2026

Rebolting at Monte Gallo & Monte Pellegrino in Sicily

24/05/2026

Brussels climbing gym cancels Youth Event over Israeli national representation dispute

Show all latest news

Expo / News

C.A.M.P.

27/05/2026

The C.A.M.P. Aeris climbing helmet wins the Silver European Outdoor Award

HDry

21/05/2026

HDry in the spotlight at ORBDAYS 2026 in Riva del Garda

SCARPA

09/04/2026

SCARPA presents Golden Gate LT: a reliable trail running shoe for everyday use

Ferrino

08/04/2026

Ferrino teams up with the Pou Brothers

Ferrino

30/03/2026

Ferrino Spring Summer 2026: a new level between innovation and tradition

C.A.M.P.

26/03/2026

Italian Alpine Club Eagle Team visits C.A.M.P. headquarters in Premana

Show news

Expo / Products

HDry HDry - Ferrino X-Dry 15+3

A trail running backpack ideal for running in any weather condition. Thanks to the HDry membrane, this backpack is fully waterproof.

Ocun Ocún Jett LU - climbing shoes for long climbs

Reliable climbing shoes for long climbs.

Kong Kong Lario 4 - climbing harness with adjustable leg loops

Fully adjustable harness with four buckles, ideal for mountaineering, winter climbing and via ferrata.

SCARPA SCARPA Furia Air - ultra-lightweight climbing shoe

FURIA AIR continues to set the benchmark for climbing footwear, delivering exceptional sensitivity and an ultra-lightweight feel.

AKU AKU Adapta Light GTX - trekking boots

Adapta LIGHT GTX by AKU is the perfect walking boot for those looking for lightness, freshness and immediate comfort on the simplest summer excursions.

C.A.M.P. C.A.M.P. Photon Lock - screwgate carabiner

Lightweight screwgate anchor carabiner.

Show products