| || |
On 13 to 15 August the Italian Kurt Astner made the first free ascent of Akut, his route first climbed in August 2000 on the impressive north face of the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo. By freeing the route he completes the project, started a year ago with Urban Ties, to climb something new, and hard, on the Tre Cime. Akut is Astners 5th new route on these immense Lavaredo walls, as he has already climbed 3 with Cristoph Hainz and 1 with Kurt Brugger.
The two chose a line on the right-hand side of the north face of the Cima Ovest, a section breached only by T. Gross Sussurro di fiori. Poor conditions and ice on the final pitches forced the couple to put off their redpoint attempts until the next year.
15 pitches lead up Akut; 500m high, equipped with bolt belays and pegs along the pitches, it starts 100 to the right of Baur and leads through the large roofs on the right. Near the top it crosses the Cassin traverse, continues through a 3m roof in the yellow overhanging section and finishes up fantastic grey slabs.
On 13 August 2001 they started again by cleaning and freeing the first four pitches. Two days later they climbed along the Cassin to their highppoint and then continued along the new line, with difficulties up to 8a max and 7b obligatory.
Akut, according to Kurt and Urban
The first few pitches are extremely overhanging and the rock is a bit chossy. At half-height the rock is great but the climbing is more sustained and demanding. The crux pitch is the tenth, with its powerful moves through the 3m roof. The final 5 pitches are the best weve ever climbed on the Tre Cime
Kurt Astner climbing though the roof
From top to bottom:
the route; Kurt and Urban at the 5th belay, Kurt climbing through the large roof, Urban Ties on the 6th pitch.
Photos Harald Gasser.
Length: 15 pitches
Height: 500 m
Grade: 8a max, 7b obl.
Time: 12-14 ore
Gear: olt belays and pegs along the pitches. A set of wires and friends may be found necessary as the in-situ gear can be run-out.
First ascent: Kurt Astner and Urban Ties over a 5 day period in August 2000.
First free ascent: Kurt Astener 13 and 15/08/2001.