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Senfter and Moser climb Croda Rossa new route

Arnold Senfter and Martin Moser from N. Italy, have made the first ascent of "Clean è Morto" on the North Face of the Croda Rossa pre-summit (3146m) in the Dolomites.

PlanetMountain.com

April 2006

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arch. Martin Moser

Arnold Senfter and Martin Moser from N. Italy, have made the first ascent of "Clean Ã¨ Morto" on the North Face of the Croda Rossa pre summit (3146m) in the Dolomites. The two needed 5 days, spread out over December to March, to climb the 6 pitch route which they graded VII/A3 e8A. Importantly, the two South Tyroleans relied on trad gear only during their winter ascent, making away with bolts and, above all, pegs traditionally used in the Dolomites.

Moser explains their approach to the route as follows: On "Clean Ã¨ morto" (clean is dead, editor's note) we chose not to use pegs or bolts and the entire route was climbed using nuts and camming devices. We also removed all gear from the belays. We didn't want to use pegs or bolts because the crack system was perfect for a clean ascent. We climbed it for winter "fun". We discovered not only that the difficulty of an ascent in itself can prove satisfying, but also that fewer pegs or bolts can increase the quality of the route." Moser concludes "Nowadays it's only the grade that counts, all the rest is the same. But with a bolt beneath your bellybutton one can climb just about anywhere."

The two plan to redpoint the line this summer. In the meantime they hope that their clean message will be taken up by future ascentionists.

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Photo top: jumaring up the wall.
Photo right: walking in to the base in winter (ph arch. Martin Moser).

Croda Rossa, Dolomiti di Braies, Alta Pusteria

THE ROUTE
presummit Croda Rossa (3.146 mt), Dolomiti di Braies - Alta Pusteria, Italy
Clean Ã© Morto (Clean Isch Tot)
F.A.: Martin Moser and Arnold Senfter winter 05/06
Grade: VII/A3 e8A
Gear: nuts and 2 sets of camming devices. Two 60m ropes
Descent: abseil down the Steiner/Felderer route on the right (bolt belays) or on foot
Notes: lthe route was first ascended over a 5 day period from December 05 to March 06. No bolts or pegs were placed, only trad gear was used, no gear was left in-situ.