Roda di Vael: Moulin rouge dance for Tondini and Sartori

On 17 March Nicola Tondini and Nicola Sartori carried out the third ascent (and first winter ascent) of “Moulin Rouge” on the red-faced Roda di Vael in the Dolomites, first climbed in June 2002 by Oswald Celva and Christof Hainz.

PlanetMountain.com

March 2005

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Roda di Vael, Catinaccio, Dolomiti, alpinismo

On 17 March Nicola Tondini and Nicola Sartori carried out the third ascent (and first winter ascent) of “Moulin Rouge” on the red-faced Roda di Vael in the Dolomites. This amazing line was first climbed in June 2002 by the mythical partnership comprised of Oswald Celva and Christof Hainz.

The 11 pitched, 450m line up to IX- are, according to Sartori "a work of art, entirely with peg protection only, straight up the slabs and overhangs. A daring line which at first sight seems impossible." Tondini adds "the route is equipped magnificently: if all knew how to equip a rote in this manner in the Dolomites, perhaps there wouldn't be the need for many bolts."

The duo climbed the route in magnificent weather conditions in 7.5 hours.

"MOULIN ROUGE"
Roda di Vael, Catinaccio, Dolomites
F.A. Christoph Hainz and Oswald Celva, 06/2002 in 30 climbing hours.bad weather seriously hampered progress during the f.a.
F.F.A. Christoph Hainz, 14/09/02
First winter ascent: Nicola Tondini and Nicola Sartori, 17/03/2005 (first on-sight, alternating leads)
Length: 450m
Grade: max IX-, mainly VIII-
Pitches: 11 pitches (V+, VI+, VII-, VIII, IX-, VII, VI+, VII+, VIII+, V+, VI+),
Access: chair lift to rif. Paolina, then 1 hour on foot to the base of the route. Start as for via Dibona
Descent: descend down the via ferrata.
Notes: Steep face climbing up sometimes friable rock, to the right of via Buhl.
Gear: the route is equipped with pegs only. Take 16 quickdraws, a set of small/mid-sized friends, two 60 ropes.

Photos: The Roda di Vael and the winter ascent (photos archive N. Tondini - N. Sartori)