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Batura Ⅱ (7762m) S Face
Photo by archivio Piolet d'Or Asia
Meru Peak (6660m) NW Face
Photo by archivio Piolet d'Or Asia
Denis Urubko & Boris Dedeshko, Eigth Women- Climbers Peak (6110m) W Face
Photo by archivio Piolet d'Or Asia
Denis Urubko & Boris Dedeshko, Eigth Women- Climbers Peak (6110m) W Face
Photo by archivio Piolet d'Or Asia
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Piolet d’Or Asia 2008, third edition nominations


The third edition of the Piolet d'Or Asia will take place in Seoul at 20.00 this evening. This imporant meeting and award has become a classic event to analyse the state of Asian mountaineering.

Seoul promises to host a great mountaineering weekend as the third edition of the "Piolet d'or Asia" kicks off in the Korean capital this evening. The award, created in France circa 16 years ago, was "founded" in 2006 in Asia to encourage mountaineering "by fair means" which respects the enviroment, and obviousely to promote this sport which is practiced by millions across Asia.

Five ascents out of 8 entires are in the running for the Asian ice axe, which goes to the most important technical ascent of the alpine season winter 2007 - autumn 2008. Much like its elder sister, the Asian event has adopted the system of nominations and the "best mountaineering ascent by Asian mountaineers" will be decided by a qualified international jury.

The 5 candidates listed below are obvioulsy all Asian (three Korean teams, one Japanese and on Kazakh team) and what is worth noting is that none of their climbs were carried out on the Himalayan 8000m peaks, as they opted for lower altitudes where technical difficulties and exploration were the name of the game.

The teams and ascents
1. Batura II (7762m) South Face
Batura II (7762m)
Location: Great Karakoram Batura Muztag
Route: New route S Face
Length: 3650m
Grade: ED
Mountaineers: Kim Chang-Ho, Choi Suk Mun (Korea)
Style: Polar Method

2. CAC Sar (5942m) & Corean Sar (6000m)
CAC Sar (5942m), Corean Sar (6000m)
Location:: Great Karakoram Hispar glacier
Route: CAC Sar: E Face, N Face, Corean Sar: NW Ridge
Length: CAC Sar 1074m, Corean Sar: 1000m
Grade: CAC Sar: TD, Corean Sar: TD
Mountaineers: 4 including Yoo Hack Jae
Style: Alpine style

3. Eigth Women- Climbers Peak (6110m) West Face
Eigth Women-Climbers Peak (6110m)
Location: Tienshan mountain
Route: New route W Face
Length: 1580m
Grade: 5.10c, M5
Mountaineers: Denis Urubko & Boris Dedeshko
Style: Alpine style

4. Meru Peak (6660m) NW Face
Meru Peak (6660m)
Location: India Garwal Himalaya
Route: New route N Face
Length: 2400m
Grade: VII, 5.9, A5
Mountaineers: 3 including Kim Se Joon (Korea)

5. Kalanka (6931m) North Face
Location: India Garhwal Himalaya
Route: new route up N Face
Length: 1800m
Grade: M5
Mountaineers:: Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato, Kazuaki Amano
Style: Alpine style

International Jury 2008
Riccardo Milani.
Italy. Mountaineer - Jury President
Tanebe Osamu. Japan. Mountaineer
Hagiwara Hiroshi. Japan. Editor of magazineRock & Snow
Gwon Sik Shim. Korea. Winner of 2nd Piolet d’Or Asia
Sang Hyeon Mo. Korea. Mountaineer
Duck Yong Im. Korea. Organiser Piolet d’Or Asia
Ki Sung Park. Korea. Director of magazine Man and Mountain
Sung Muk Lim. Korea. Editor of magazine Man and Mountain





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