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Ogre III, first ascent at the hands of Thomas Huber, Wolf and Stöcker

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On 1/07 Thomas Huber, Iwan Wolf and Urs Stöcker made the first ascent of Ogre III (6800m), Pakistan

On Sunday 1 July Thomas Huber, Iwan Wolf and Urs Stöcker made the first ascent of Ogre III (6800m), the west summit of Ogre II, Pakistan. The trio had intended on climbing the South Pillar of Ogre (7285m), which the Huber brothers had attempted unsuccessfully in 1999, but they rapidly changed their objective as an American expedition was already on the wall. On 14 June they decided to direct their attention to the previously unclimbed West Pillar of Ogre III. A decision that, as it later turned out, proved to be just right.

In various stages the three established a camp at about 6000m and then, at 2.00am on 30 June, left Base Camp to arrive at this camp at 8.00am. After a short rest they proceeded and set up more fixed ropes to about 400m beneath the summit. After another short night they left, once again at 2.00am, for their summit push. Reaching the end of the fixed ropes at 5.00am, they continued up hard mixed terrain to arrive at the summit at 14.00 on 1 July.
They are now safely back in Base Camp and it’s raining…
Although we have no detailed information about the route as yet, it seems as if the trio encountered difficulties up to A3 (!).






20 June



27 June



27
June



28
June



28
June


Thomas Huber: 34 - Germany.
2000: Shivling North Pillar; Shivas line 7/A4 - India (Awarded with the Piolet d’or)

Iwan Wolf: 28 - Switzerland.
2000: Shivling North Pillar; Shivas line 7/A4 - India (Awarded with the Piolet d’or)

Urs Stöcker: 24 Switzerland.
2000: Nameless Tower, Karakorum

  www.huberbuam.de
  www.berghaus.com
  Piolet d'Or 2001

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