Home page Planetmountain.com

North Twin ascent


In April Steve House and Marko Prezelj made the coveted third ascent of the 5000 foot North face of North Twin, Canadian Rockies, via a new line.

Good news travels fast. At times though, it takes a while to reach us. In April Steve House and Marko Prezelj made the coveted third ascent of the 5000 foot North face of North Twin, Canadian Rockies, via a new line.

The wall, first climbed by George Lowe and Chris Jones over a period of six days in August 1974, was conservatively graded VI, 5.8, A3, making it the hardest in North America at the time.

The face received its second ascent in 1985 at the hands of Dave Cheesmond and Barry Blanchard cia an independent line called the North Pillar. The route was done with four bivouacs and rated VI, 5.10d, A0, with only eight points of aid used on the entire 60-pitch route.

Steve House and Marko Prezelj started up an independent line on the face in early-April 2004, "a sensible winter variant" according to Blanchard. Sticking to the center of the face, which would be suicidal in summer, the pair quickly gained ground. Upon reaching the "Chicken traverse" (the ledge cutting the face at mid-height) they traversed to the Lowe-Jones route. They climbed 13 pitches to get through the headwall, rating the climbing 5.10, A3.

House followed the upper part with a single crampon and boot shell after dropping one from the third bivy. Marko, who led the last pitches said, " a straight up finish was possible, but after boot shell drop I was just looking for escape." Unable to return to their skis, the pair eventually escaped across the ice cap, wading through 15 miles of deep snow in 9 hours. House and Prezelj spent four days on the route.

North Twin, Canadian Rockies
Steve House during the third ascent of the north face of North Twin, Canadian Rockies.
Photo Marko Prezelj
Expo Expo Grivel





Full text search


EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
Via delle Rosine, prima discesa, #iorestoacasa
Federico Ravassard Outdoor Photography