New route on Roccia Nera, Monte Rosa
On 28/02/2003 the two Italian mountain guides Roberto Rossi and Ivano Bianchi opened a newline up the North Face of Roccia Nera (4075 m, Monte Rosa).
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| On 28/02/2003 the two Italian mountain guides Roberto Rossi and Ivano Bianchi opened a new line up the North Face of Roccia Nera (4075 m, Monte Rosa). The 500 m mixed route encounters difficulties up to IV+/5, (TD+) and climbs a coulouir to the right of the “Grassi-Bernardi” . Il Rosso ed il Bianco FA: Roberto Rossi and Ivano Bianchi 28/02/2003 Grade: IV+/5, (TD+) Length: 500 m. Orientation: North Getting there: From the bivouac Rossi-Volante continue past Porta Nera beneath the east facing arete, reach the base of a snowy slope and cross the bergschrund. Descent: descend down the Roccia Nera normal route to the bivouac. Gear: 5-6 ice screws (some short), 1 set of friends. No gear left in-situ. Trad belays. Description: cross the bergschrund beneath an obvious red rocky outcrop. Climb left around this and follow the gully to the slope above (65°) up mixed cliimbing to the obvious ridge. Follow this to the start of an icy corner – climb the narrow sliver for 160m to reach the cornice beneath the summit ridge. Thanks to Montura, Kayland and Ferrino |
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