Manfred Stuffer's Dolomites summer
Manfred Stuffer spent last summer amassing a series of hard ascents, solos and enchainements, including "Costantini-Apollonio" (6c+), "Costantini-Ghedina" and 1° Spigolo Tofana di Rozes in 5 hours 30 minutes.
Winter time. That time of year to remember last summer and dream about the next season. Manfred Stuffer, best known for his hard redpoints and first ascents (for example Underground 8c+/9a, 1998), spent last summer in his home Dolomites amassing an important list of repeats and solo ascents.
Interestingly he chose to enchain a series of classics, such as "Costantini-Apollonio" (6c+), "Costantini-Ghedina" and 1Â° Spigolo Tofana di Rozes in 5 hours 30 minutes from the Dibona refuge. That's 2180 vertical meters, not to mention the descents! To finish the day off he visited his local crag Pian Schiavaneis, where he soloed the 20m 7c+ Ciapa e tira.
In mid-June he on-sighted one of the classics in the Dolomites, Via Attraverso il Pesce in Marmolada, while a few days later he repeated the hardest route at Pian Schiavaneis, Linea Mortale (8b+/8c). In August he soloed Ottovolante on Torre Brunico (11 pitches 7a+; 360 m) in 1 hour 20 minutes, self-belaying himself on the crux before continuing. In early September he then made the 4th ascent of Via Italia '61 8a, while on 1 October together with his partner he climbed Good bye 99" (7b) and Da Pozzo vecchio pazzo (7c) both on the same day: 20 pitches un to 7c with a mix of modern and trad gear.
And October continued as it had started:
13 October: Fatta e rifatta Gusela - 7c, 7 pitches, on-sight
15 October: Dulcis in fundo Piz Ciavazes - 7a+, 9 pitches, 1st repeat, on-sight
26 October: Via della Giraffa Sass Ciampac - 7c+, 8 tiri, 2. repeat and first redpoint, (f.a. David Demetz and Benno Vinatzer, 2002); alpine style route on normal pegs.
27 October: Compagni di merenda Tofana di Rozes - 7b, 10 pitches, on-sight
28 October: Rossi VII- and Via Bertoldi 6b, Sella, on-sight 1 hour
29 October: Via Luciano da Pozzo alla Cima Scotoni - 7c+, 10 pitches, on-sight, 2nd repeat.
Photo: Manfred Stuffer climbing "Dulcis in fundo" Piz Ciavazes, Sella, Dolomites