Marcello Sanguineti on the middle section
Gianluca Cavalli
Fancy of Peckers, new variation up Col du Peigne by Sanguineti and Cavalli
On 08 December 2013 Gianluca Cavalli and Marcello Sanguineti put up Fancy of Peckers (M5+R) on Col du Peigne. Located between Aiguille du Pélerins and Aiguille du Peigne in the Mont Blanc massif, this 175m variation links the first part of Full Love... for dry and ice with the exit of Livacic-Martinetti del 1942.
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Marcello Sanguineti on the middle section
Gianluca Cavalli
After some fun initial pitches, the route connects the snowy gully of Full Love... for dry and ice with the exit of the 1942 Livacic - Martinetti route, of which there is little news about "winter garb" repeats, apart from perhaps that by Nisbet and Spinks in 1979 (see Damilano: "Neige, Glace et Mixte").
The new pitches offer some great climbing; technical and delicate moves up a thin line of ice, past smooth corners that reveal holds only as you get close and lead, unexpectedly, through a true sea of slabs. Seeing the terrain (ice-covered slabs) the conditions can change considerably even in the short space of time, depending on snow cover and temperatures.
TOPO: Fancy of Peckers, Mont Blanc
by Marcello Sanguineti
Thanks to:
Karpos / Sportful (www.sportful.it)
Grivel (www.grivel.com)
Trango World (www.trangoworld.com/en)
Geoborders Italy (www.geobordersitaly.com): sale, hire and assistance of satellite gear<
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