Home page Planetmountain.com
Adrian Laing leading pitch one, 50m 6a+, Naughty Daddies 630m 7b. Belayed by Jon Sedon.
Photo by Bruce Dowrick
Black line: Naughty Daddies 630m, 7b Red line: Ledgeway to heaven 1300m 7c. (Sean Villanueva, Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Adam Pustelnik, 2007 )
Photo by Bruce Dowrick
INFO / links & info:

Charakusa Valley, new big wall in Karakorum


In August 2009 a four man team from Australia and New Zealand established Naughty Daddies (630m 7b), a new route on Nafees Cap, the massive granite spire detached from K7 in the Charakusa Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan.

In late July the Australians Adrian Laing and Scott Standen and New Zealanders Bruce Dowrick and Jon Sedon travelled to the Charakusa Valley in Pakistan's Karakorum with the idea of establishing a new route on the Nafees Cap, the impressive spire which had been summited by Nicolas Favresse, his brother Olivier, Sean Villanueva and Adam Pustelnik in 2007 via their all free Ledgeway to Heaven 1300m 7c.

Twenty year high record snowfalls saw many of the proudest lines become waterfalls in the afternoon snow melt, so a drier line not fed by the summit snow was chosen. Difficult access to gain the wall saw the team climb two ice and one rock pitch to get to the desired crack system. Ten pitches were then free climbed with difficulties up to 7b in the first six days, living in the portaledges. 

After a quick trip to base camp for more supplies, Laing and Sedon returned to the wall without Dowrick and Standen who were both feeling the effects of altitude. They spent another 4 nights in the portaledge and climbed eight further pitches. The crack they had followed for twelve pitches deposited them on the right shoulder of the pillar where they joined Ledgeway to Heaven.

After a night bivvying out they attempted to climb the remaining pitches of Ledgeway to Heaven and summit but were thwarted by ice walls on ledges and cracks choked up with ice. After two pitches they bailed and rapped off to the portaledge.

The four climbers called their route Naughty Daddies 630m 7b. Sixteen of the nineteen pitches were free climbed ground up, on-sight and using only traditional protection. On two pitches a bolt was placed for leader protection. These bolts were placed on abseil after aiding an alternate pitch. The granite was of excellent quality and there is potential for many other hard, free routes up the numerous crack systems.





Full text search


EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra