Andi Hammerstingl & Xaver Mayr add 4 Gewinnt to Pantherkopf, Wetterstein

On 5 June 2015 German climbers Xaver Mayr and Andi Hammerstingl made the first free ascent of 4 Gewinnt, their new route up the South Face of Pantherkopf in the Wetterstein massif, Austria.
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Andi Hammerstingl and Xaver Mayr during the first ascent of 4 Gewinnt, Pantherkopf, Schüsselkar, Wetterstein, Austria
Thomas Holler
Early this summer German climbers Andi Hammerstingl (20) and Xaver Mayr (19) completed 4 Gewinnt, a 4 pitch outing they had previously forged up the compact South Face of Pantherkopf in the Schüsselkar group in Austria’s Wetterstein massif.

The new route tackles an independent line between the routes Phyps and Schwer ist leicht. The first three pitches were forged ground-up in in summer 2013 and the 140m high route breaches difficulties up to VIII+. While most of the climbing is protected mainly by Camelots and nuts, a few sparse bolts and a peg protect the most run-out sections.

Although belays are bolted, Hammerstingl and Mayr have described the line as a "demanding and serious climbing on perfect and varied Wetterstein limestone. You need to be good at placing trad gear and the upper UIAA VIII should be well in your grasp."


TOPO: 4 Gewinnt, Pantherkopf, Wetterstein




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